EFI to carb conversion ??
Went from Mikuni to FI, and I have to say I couldn't be more pleased. I can't believe how well it performs in the mountains, adjust fuel to air, and back when I'm at lower elevations. Never wanted FI before, but I don't ever want to back now. Mine has been bulletproof.
Bought a brand new night train (08) this july and have since put 6500 miles on it. I hate the fuel injection. Its my first FI bike, and i want my carb back. If anyone knows what it takes to convert to a carb with the 96" engine, please let me know.
No need to go with the T/Max. Just get a TTS tuner from either HDMD tuning center or Flying W (something), found in http://mastertune.net/dealers.html, and are members here. Mention you are too when you talk to either of them.
Our Delphi EFI is really pretty cool, and quite capable, and although the software included with the TTS tuner is Windows-based (yuk!) it's pretty capable stuff. It would be nice if the interface to the bike could stand-alone datalog for later download instead of requiring a Windows-running (yuk!) laptop be hooked up during a ride. Their VTune software will allow you to "just ride" to tune your bike to within 90% of perfection without using a dyno. It would be nice if it at least was JAVA-based software so I wouldn't have to fire up a Windows session on my laptop.
Using the TTS stuff, your bike will never run better, even with the T/Max (or with, rather, the way-better of the two "similar" systems, the Daytona TwinTec TCFI).
I'd jettison your FuelPak and move onto the ThunderMax or PCIII units as suggested above and get a reputable tuner. I chose the EFI system (very similar to yours actually, although my ECM is made by Magnetti-Marelli instead of Delphi) and like my cars, wouldn't go back for the reliability the EFI offers. I found flawless performance from "Stage II" through "Stage III+" modifications and can only conclude after hearing complaints that there are some bad tuners out there, and components used together that weren't compatible from Day One.
After buying a used 05 FLHPI I had ongoing problems with the EFI. I followed the diagnostic tree in the HD Electrical Diagnosis Manual a number of times, in a number of directions, to no avail. I had read several articles in various forums about other bikers going from EFI to carburetor so I decided to do so myself.
Everything I read was helpful but most postings were incomplete. Below is what I bought and did for a 05 FLHPI. Likely it will not apply to different models/years
HD Parts:
1) 11291 manifold sensor seal
10) 1311D screws
1) 16315-99 top engine mount (with slot for choke)
2) 26995-86C intake manifold seals
1) 27002-89 seal, carb to manifold
1) 27412-99D carb (CV40)
1) 27613-99 intake manifold for CV40
1) 29229-88D enrichment cable
1) 29313-95 gasket, filter element
1) 31655-99 ignition coil
1) 32435-04 wiring harness, ignition
1) 32622-04B ignition control module (ICM)
1) 38723-99 retaining clip, MAP sensor
1) 61163-02 spacer
1) 61402-02 gasket, sending unit
1) 68042-99 screw
DennisKirk Parts:
1) 182865 petcock adapter w/seal
1) H18262 petcock
1) H17224 Slinger Airflow Works jet kit for CV carbs (if your intake /exhaust are not stock)
Auto Parts:
1 foot ¼” fuel line
1 foot 5/8” nylon insulator
4 worm gear clamps
2 feet of wire w/appropriate connectors
The parts installation was pretty straight forward. I had the HD manuals and the job basically consisted of part swapping.
In the forum articles I read an admonition that once the system was changed a procedure called “password learn” would need to be done. Directions were often available for the process. However, I never saw that the new system would have to be reprogrammed before “password learn” could be accomplished. The reader will probably guess what’s next – only a Harley-Davidson dealer can reprogram a new system. The reprogramming and “password learn” are fairly inexpensive if the dealer knows what to do. Be sure the dealer knows that the ICM has to be given a carburetor VIN electronically before it can be reprogrammed. I was told that there was something wrong with my work and so after 3 hours of repeated unnecessary diagnostics the service manager called HD. The dealer was then given the knowledge I thought they had when I went there in the first place.
Programmed correctly, she took the password learn and fired right up. The dealer then tried to hang me with another hour because my lights (working fine when I arrived) reportedly were no longer functioning. The whole exchange was a **** story that would have ended up in small claims court but for the fact that the nearest dealer to my home is a 2.25 hour trip one way.
But enough time worrying about sick folk. The bike runs fine and I would not now hesitate to buy an EFI HD to 2006. I think that was the last year for the carburetor models. In fact I recently bought a 05 FLSTSCI (not from the sick dealer of course). Wouldn’t you know? The EFI works like a Swiss watch.
I had about $1,155.00 in parts in the project. The work at the dealer should be no more than 1 hour and may likely be less. Getting the machine to the dealer is another consideration. After changing the jets I have yet to reset the idle mixture and speed, as it seems to be spot on. That, of course, may change with summer time temperatures and so I will monitor the performance for a bit.
I hope this will help others save some money, stress and time.
Questions answered at bhmysc@yahoo.com
Best wishes for thousands of safe and enjoyable riding miles.
Everything I read was helpful but most postings were incomplete. Below is what I bought and did for a 05 FLHPI. Likely it will not apply to different models/years
HD Parts:
1) 11291 manifold sensor seal
10) 1311D screws
1) 16315-99 top engine mount (with slot for choke)
2) 26995-86C intake manifold seals
1) 27002-89 seal, carb to manifold
1) 27412-99D carb (CV40)
1) 27613-99 intake manifold for CV40
1) 29229-88D enrichment cable
1) 29313-95 gasket, filter element
1) 31655-99 ignition coil
1) 32435-04 wiring harness, ignition
1) 32622-04B ignition control module (ICM)
1) 38723-99 retaining clip, MAP sensor
1) 61163-02 spacer
1) 61402-02 gasket, sending unit
1) 68042-99 screw
DennisKirk Parts:
1) 182865 petcock adapter w/seal
1) H18262 petcock
1) H17224 Slinger Airflow Works jet kit for CV carbs (if your intake /exhaust are not stock)
Auto Parts:
1 foot ¼” fuel line
1 foot 5/8” nylon insulator
4 worm gear clamps
2 feet of wire w/appropriate connectors
The parts installation was pretty straight forward. I had the HD manuals and the job basically consisted of part swapping.
In the forum articles I read an admonition that once the system was changed a procedure called “password learn” would need to be done. Directions were often available for the process. However, I never saw that the new system would have to be reprogrammed before “password learn” could be accomplished. The reader will probably guess what’s next – only a Harley-Davidson dealer can reprogram a new system. The reprogramming and “password learn” are fairly inexpensive if the dealer knows what to do. Be sure the dealer knows that the ICM has to be given a carburetor VIN electronically before it can be reprogrammed. I was told that there was something wrong with my work and so after 3 hours of repeated unnecessary diagnostics the service manager called HD. The dealer was then given the knowledge I thought they had when I went there in the first place.
Programmed correctly, she took the password learn and fired right up. The dealer then tried to hang me with another hour because my lights (working fine when I arrived) reportedly were no longer functioning. The whole exchange was a **** story that would have ended up in small claims court but for the fact that the nearest dealer to my home is a 2.25 hour trip one way.
But enough time worrying about sick folk. The bike runs fine and I would not now hesitate to buy an EFI HD to 2006. I think that was the last year for the carburetor models. In fact I recently bought a 05 FLSTSCI (not from the sick dealer of course). Wouldn’t you know? The EFI works like a Swiss watch.
I had about $1,155.00 in parts in the project. The work at the dealer should be no more than 1 hour and may likely be less. Getting the machine to the dealer is another consideration. After changing the jets I have yet to reset the idle mixture and speed, as it seems to be spot on. That, of course, may change with summer time temperatures and so I will monitor the performance for a bit.
I hope this will help others save some money, stress and time.
Questions answered at bhmysc@yahoo.com
Best wishes for thousands of safe and enjoyable riding miles.
I, too, was a bit suspicious of the EFI when I bought my injected '99 Road King a bit over a year ago. After a bumpy start with an idle problem, a bit of heartache and more than a few dollars on parts & labour I finally found someone who could tune the damn thing & haven't looked back. Goes great! Only problem I can see is if it stops and it's not something real simple, then it's off to the garage .... nothing much you can do without a computer and a good operator (for both diagnostics and repair). Overall, I now like the reliability and management options you get with EFI.
All this crap about roadside fixes,and not being able to with a fi bike cracks me up.
With the money your going to spend going to a carb why not buy a decent tuner and never have to fix anything.
A carb is a dinosaur in the stone age. My Harley with a cammed 106 makes 107hp/115 tq and gets 50mpg on the highway. No carb will match that. Then consider cylinder wash,fuel dilution in the oil,cold starts.
In my opinion carbs are a great museum piece,talked about and considered funny,especially today's age.
Remember that the dinosaurs are extinct.


