? On changing derby covers

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Dec 29, 2008 | 07:22 PM

#11

RODEO

Outstanding HDF Member

Joined: Sep 2008

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If you don't have a wrench in inch pounds, just divide by 12 and use a wrench calibrated in foot pounds. (84 inch pounds = 7 foot pounds, 96 inch pounds = 8 foot pounds. etc.) Just definitely keep it under 10 foot pounds.

Dec 29, 2008 | 09:05 PM

#12

Dorkman

Ultimate HDF Member

Joined: Feb 2007

Posts: 5,578

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From: Northern California

Tight enough is good enough...the derby cover is not a critical heat sensitive part. Just snug them down even, side to side, and be sure to properly seat the gasket.

Dec 30, 2008 | 08:34 AM

#13

captsam54

Road Master

Joined: Jan 2008

Posts: 1,226

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From: SW Florida

I may be the one your looking for..

Yes.. I changed out my Derby cover for a nice glossy black powder coated one last week..

What a pain..

Well I bent and broke 2 Craftsman T-27 bits trying to get the last 2 factory bolts out.. (Damn.. thought I was going to break my 3/8's drive) They were in there..!!!

SO.. I went to Harley and asked the service mgr.. He said.. bring it in and we will heat it up... What.. Put a propane torch to a chrome derby cover..??? I said no thanks..

I went back to Sears to replace the bent/broken T-27's (free) and.. also picked up a "hand" impact driver.. All you "old" guys remember them..

Came home and rigged it up to hold a t-27 bit.. A couple of taps from a ball peen hammer and they came right out..

Wait it gets better..

I put new chrome allen head bolts from my local indie in.. By hand and with a 3/8 drive ratchet, no torque..(and I have 2)... AND felt the LAST ONE slip at the end..

Now of course I am not trying to tighten them back the way they were from the factory.. just snug enough for me..

So I just left it there.. Will fight that battle when I have to take it off in the distant future..(I hope)

Was the ft. side forward bolt so I am not worried about it leaking oil..

So the moral of the story is to use a torque wrench...

And if using aftermarket chrome.. try 10 lbs under spec..!!!

Dec 30, 2008 | 09:34 AM

#14

mtlakehog

Tourer

Joined: Jul 2008

Posts: 446

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From: SW Va..

aren't the torque specs set at a certain number to protect the threads and the gasket? if you over torqued the gasket couldn't it cause a leak?

Dec 30, 2008 | 09:41 AM

#15

AlCherry

Road Warrior

Joined: Jul 2007

Posts: 1,309

Likes: 93

From: Rye, By God, Deep East Texas

After i broke a torx socket, I beat the torx screws off, went to Ace Hardware and bought 10 chrome Allenheads (5 for my EGC & 5 for my wifes Sportster). Ended that friggin problem!

Dec 30, 2008 | 09:48 AM

#16

honestbob

Elite HDF Member

Joined: Apr 2008

Posts: 3,900

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From: way down upon the Suwannee River

I'm a retired industrial mechanic and a past ASE certified auto and truck mechanic. and ANY fasteners I put into aluminum I torque. Steel you can get away with (FEEL). aluminum will bite you in the *** sooner or later. and it don't take any longer. my .02

Dec 30, 2008 | 09:49 AM

#17

AaronOregon

Former Sponsor

Joined: Jul 2008

Posts: 461

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From: Bend, Oregon

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lucky 13

Why not torque? It takes exactly the same effort as simply using a ratchet anyway.

I have a 3/8" and a 1/2" torque wrench, but my 3/8" starts at 150 in/lbs. Is this normal? Where do most 3/8" start at?

Aaron

Dec 30, 2008 | 10:10 AM

#18

Sgt Mac

Road Master

Joined: Feb 2008

Posts: 876

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From: Eastern NC

Quote:

Originally Posted by AaronOregon

I have a 3/8" and a 1/2" torque wrench, but my 3/8" starts at 150 in/lbs. Is this normal? Where do most 3/8" start at?

Aaron

Most common I've seen is 30-150

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Dec 30, 2008 | 10:37 AM

#19

Dr.Hess

Seasoned HDF Member

Joined: Aug 2007

Posts: 8,200

Likes: 3,089

From: NW AR

Having stripped out a rocker box bolt using a torque wrench, on the bikes I only use them on head bolts (initial torque only), sprockets and brake disks. Things like derby cover bolts always get neverseize.

Dec 30, 2008 | 10:42 AM

#20

RODEO

Outstanding HDF Member

Joined: Sep 2008

Posts: 2,458

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Dr.Hess

Would BLUE Locktite work similar to Never Seize? That might be better then nothing on the threads right? Locktite PURPLE might also be a good choice. I think that anything that is meant for threads and will allow break away is better then using nothing because sooner or later the aluminum of the threads will bind with the screws being used. (Actually, now that I looked I found I had a can of Locktite C5-A copper based Anti-Seize compound, good for up to 1800F and that sounds like its good to use. I'm dropping my tranny and primary fluid today, so this thread was of interest.

Last edited by RODEO; Dec 30, 2008 at 11:11 AM.

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