Tie Down Spreader Bar
Thread Starter
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Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,442
Likes: 8
From: south
Tie Down Spreader Bar
This mod will only work on a bike without rear crash bars.
Due to Polio when I was a child I am forced to trailer for anything over about 200 miles. So don't hammer on me to much for trailering
. I wish I didn't have to.
Anyway, I wanted a safe way to tie down my SG and do no damage. I came up with this.
If you remove your seat you will see two 3/8x16 threaded holes for the rear crash bars.
I bought a damaged seat off E-Bay for $20.00 and striped off all the vinyl and foam and plugged up all the holes. I cut slots in it for the spreader bar to fit into. This keeps things dry if it rains. If you have an enclosed trailer you wouldn't need to do the seat.
I welded up a simple spreader bar to line up with the two threaded holes.
This keeps the tie down points up high and totally away from the bike.
When I get to my destination I just remove this and put the stock seat back on.
I have a Condor chock on the front of the trailer that I also strap the front tire to.
Here are a few pics that will explain what I am trying to say. Sorry about the big pics. I thought they would be smaller.
Due to Polio when I was a child I am forced to trailer for anything over about 200 miles. So don't hammer on me to much for trailering
. I wish I didn't have to.Anyway, I wanted a safe way to tie down my SG and do no damage. I came up with this.
If you remove your seat you will see two 3/8x16 threaded holes for the rear crash bars.
I bought a damaged seat off E-Bay for $20.00 and striped off all the vinyl and foam and plugged up all the holes. I cut slots in it for the spreader bar to fit into. This keeps things dry if it rains. If you have an enclosed trailer you wouldn't need to do the seat.
I welded up a simple spreader bar to line up with the two threaded holes.
This keeps the tie down points up high and totally away from the bike.
When I get to my destination I just remove this and put the stock seat back on.
I have a Condor chock on the front of the trailer that I also strap the front tire to.
Here are a few pics that will explain what I am trying to say. Sorry about the big pics. I thought they would be smaller.
Last edited by harley-jones; Jan 20, 2009 at 01:07 PM.
Road Master
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 832
Likes: 1
From: Bagram, Afghanistan
I'll take one PLEASE!
I don't trailer much, but every now and then I like to trailer down to Texas to go riding with family. Being in the military, it's easier to make time from NC to TX on a trailer and then enjoy longer excursions with the family in TX. Last time I did it I couldn't find a good rear tie down point and about 200 miles into the trip I checked the load and found the rear had slid a good 8 inches from center. had to unload, reposition and then re-strap everything. I was paranoid the rest of the way. This looks like a really good idea.
So what would you charge to make the tie down bar without the seat pan?
I don't trailer much, but every now and then I like to trailer down to Texas to go riding with family. Being in the military, it's easier to make time from NC to TX on a trailer and then enjoy longer excursions with the family in TX. Last time I did it I couldn't find a good rear tie down point and about 200 miles into the trip I checked the load and found the rear had slid a good 8 inches from center. had to unload, reposition and then re-strap everything. I was paranoid the rest of the way. This looks like a really good idea.
So what would you charge to make the tie down bar without the seat pan?
Thread Starter
|
Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,442
Likes: 8
From: south
I'll take one PLEASE!
I don't trailer much, but every now and then I like to trailer down to Texas to go riding with family. Being in the military, it's easier to make time from NC to TX on a trailer and then enjoy longer excursions with the family in TX. Last time I did it I couldn't find a good rear tie down point and about 200 miles into the trip I checked the load and found the rear had slid a good 8 inches from center. had to unload, reposition and then re-strap everything. I was paranoid the rest of the way. This looks like a really good idea.
So what would you charge to make the tie down bar without the seat pan?
I don't trailer much, but every now and then I like to trailer down to Texas to go riding with family. Being in the military, it's easier to make time from NC to TX on a trailer and then enjoy longer excursions with the family in TX. Last time I did it I couldn't find a good rear tie down point and about 200 miles into the trip I checked the load and found the rear had slid a good 8 inches from center. had to unload, reposition and then re-strap everything. I was paranoid the rest of the way. This looks like a really good idea.
So what would you charge to make the tie down bar without the seat pan?
You should be able to have one of these made local. Its real simple and there are several way that it could be done.
I made mine out of some stuff I had laying around in the shop. And thanks for the compliment.
Thread Starter
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Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,442
Likes: 8
From: south
I am not interested in making these to sell. I only posted this to give everyone an idea of a way to tie down safely without doing any damage. I would be more than happy to give you any information (length, center to center measurements, ect.) so you could make or have one made yourself.
I figure some company will see this and start making them soon at a rediculous price (LOL). All joking aside, this does work very well and is something that is fairly easy to do.
The seat pan because of the glue that held the foam in, and all the places that I had fill to make it water tight was the hardest part. The spreader bar was the easy part (measure, cut, weld, grind, paint).
I figure some company will see this and start making them soon at a rediculous price (LOL). All joking aside, this does work very well and is something that is fairly easy to do.
The seat pan because of the glue that held the foam in, and all the places that I had fill to make it water tight was the hardest part. The spreader bar was the easy part (measure, cut, weld, grind, paint).
Last edited by harley-jones; Jan 20, 2009 at 02:07 PM.
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