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Switching to gear drive, "thoughts"

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Old Jan 25, 2009 | 01:52 AM
  #11  
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I went with a new stock cam plate, and new cam bearings.

An unrelated issue of interest: initially, I installed a Fueling super pump oil pump, but within 150 miles, the gerotor gear broke into 3 pieces. I also know of another bike that suffered the same failure of the Feuling oil pump within 5000 miles of installation. Pulled the Feuling pump out and put in a new stock oil pump.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2009 | 02:53 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Airpump
Fail to mention that my EG is an 06 with 10,000 on the clock.

Thanks for all the great information. For those who have gone with the gear set, did you use the stock cam plate??
Stock cam plate is fine trust me, im a WORRY WART. IF my builder thought for one minute that it should be replaced, he would have done it. I DIDNT WANT TO LEAVE ANY THING TO CHANCE.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2009 | 03:31 AM
  #13  
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Elespy, Yes, stock cam plate on mine. I found an older NOS Fueling oil pump on ebay. It doesnt have a part number on it like the new ones. So, maybe I'm lucky. The critical thing is the crank runout and getting the pump aligned with no binding. If it's in a bind from a side load, not centered, it will damage it.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2009 | 07:57 AM
  #14  
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I tried the gear drive on my 03 RKC. To noisy for me. I am satisfied with the new style roller chain drive on the 07 and later.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2009 | 08:13 AM
  #15  
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Went with gears and no looking back.
Kept the stock pump assy.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2009 | 10:44 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by manonthemon
To expensive IMHO. Switch to Synthetic, check them at 20K and every 10K after that. Replace them when bad. Should be no more than 400 buckss
Using synthetic oil doesn't have anything to do with how quickly the pads wear. I've seen synthetic oiled tensioners shot at 30k miles.

If a guy is going change tensioners and wants new cams, going with gears only costs about 200 bucks more.

I love my gears. Not worrying about the tensioners gives me more time to concentrate on when my belt is gonna break.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2009 | 10:52 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by dgriffith
You didn't state what year your bike is? Mine 06, I did,but make sure the crank run out is in speck. Mine was less than .002 Changed the cams, oil pump and spring also. AN Alternative is to go with the 07 and later setup. All stock parts and less problems with tensioner shoes.
I have an 07 FLHTC with 10,500 miles. You mentioned the 07 setup, does it hold up better than older models?
 
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Old Jan 25, 2009 | 10:59 AM
  #18  
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You can't haphazardly start throwing gear drives in.
Before ever ordering them, you need to pull the cam plate and oil pump and check crank runout.
If this isn't done and runout is outside tolerance...guess what happens?
You break 1 of 2 things...one of the gears...or the crank.

Where are you located in the Smokies?
PM me...I'm in Knoxville.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2009 | 11:00 AM
  #19  
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Make sure you check run out before putting gear drive in.......002....no more....There is a neat display out that has chain drive set up and gear drive cam set up in it and it amazing the dif there is when you turn each one.WOW.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2009 | 11:00 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Airpump
Fail to mention that my EG is an 06 with 10,000 on the clock.

Thanks for all the great information. For those who have gone with the gear set, did you use the stock cam plate??
'06 RG made switch at 15K.

Fueling cam plate, oil pump, etc...a lot of work. Went with 510 cams...probably gave away a lot of "off the line" power...but, did not buy bagger to compete with v-rod.

Hear gear drives, but not that big of deal to me. Thought HD self adjusting primary chain tensioner was louder. Took that out at same time. Replaced with stock.
 
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