Heated Grip Wiring Question, Problem?
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Northern WV
Heated Grip Wiring Question, Problem?
My heated grips were installed by the dealer. They work, but just looking at how they wired them it doesn't look correct to me and I don't have the instructions. There is about 3'-4' excess wire just coiled behind the headlight. I'm no expert on wiring, which is why I paid them to do it, but it appears they tapped into the cigarette lighter wire for power then to the headlight wire so they would only turn on when the lights are on. This would prevent them draining the battery while the ignition is off. I'd think the power lead should go back to the battery and there seems to be plenty of wire to do so.
Just curious if any of you that have instructions, or may be knowledgeable, can tell me if this is correct. Here are a couple pictures if it would help. TIA
Just curious if any of you that have instructions, or may be knowledgeable, can tell me if this is correct. Here are a couple pictures if it would help. TIA
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Joined: Aug 2008
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I am going through the installation, and it is very time consuming to do it per the provided HD instructions, as the wiring is installed much as if was part of the original harness. It take a lot of work to dig way into the fuse block to make one of the connections.
The grips appear to need 2 power sources, not clear why by the included electrical schematic. It appears there may be an undocumented relay inside the left grip. There is a connection to B+ for high current, and another to an ignition switched power source to enable the relay. That way you get high current for the grips, and only enabled when the ignition switch is on.
They may have thought (correctly) that it is way too much hassle to get to the fuse block connection. Much quicker to connect to the lighter power.
Just my 2 Cents.
The grips appear to need 2 power sources, not clear why by the included electrical schematic. It appears there may be an undocumented relay inside the left grip. There is a connection to B+ for high current, and another to an ignition switched power source to enable the relay. That way you get high current for the grips, and only enabled when the ignition switch is on.
They may have thought (correctly) that it is way too much hassle to get to the fuse block connection. Much quicker to connect to the lighter power.
Just my 2 Cents.
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,842
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From: Northern WV
MrSunset this was an old post of mine but thanks for your reply, it may help someone dealing with this now. And I think your correct. I agree it was easier to clip the power lead on the cigarette lighter lead and thats why the tech did it. But it wasn't the right way, yet they charged me the allotted shop hours (at least 3). The cigarette lighter lead is on the same circuit as the turn signals and brake lights. Also the cruise kicks off and 6th gear indicator goes out when that fuse blows. (I know from experience) I would think that adding heated grips and using the lighter at the same time may be more than that wire should have through it? Anyway I un-wired it from the lighter since I didn't need the grip heaters in the Summer
Thankfully after my fuse issues, which were traced to a corroded connector pin on the running light module, they also agreed to re-wire the grips the way HD designed it to be. Thankfully no more problems.
I *believe* there is something like the main power lead for the grips and also a wire from a switched source which acts as an exciter to tell the control "the ignition is on, its OK to switch on and connect to the main power".
Thankfully after my fuse issues, which were traced to a corroded connector pin on the running light module, they also agreed to re-wire the grips the way HD designed it to be. Thankfully no more problems.
I *believe* there is something like the main power lead for the grips and also a wire from a switched source which acts as an exciter to tell the control "the ignition is on, its OK to switch on and connect to the main power".
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