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Power from battery to batwing

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Old Feb 22, 2009 | 12:36 PM
  #11  
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I've run several wires under the tank on my '07, and there isn't much room. The right side seems to have more than the left.

Raise the rear about 1", then snake a straightened coathanger wire under the tank from front to rear or vice versa whichever is most convenient. Tape the end of the new wire to the end of the coathanger and pull it on through. I usually put the wire inside some thin tubing material, as when the tank is returned to its normal height the wire is very tight. I worry about the insulation wearing off in time from the pressure and vibration, and that's why I put extra sheathing over the wire. One day I'll remove the tank and rearrange these wires so I know they'll be safely positioned, as right now there's no telling where they are or what they're pushed up against.

A good idea would be to run a large wire (10-gauge or larger) and use it for your present job and future accessories that need direct battery power. Put a 15A fuse close to the battery end so if a short develops under the tank you are protected.

Running wires under the console will work and may be easier, but if you ever need to remove the tank you'll have to deal with these wires. If you do that it might be wise to use some blade connectors so they can be easily detached for tank removal.
 

Last edited by iclick; Feb 22, 2009 at 12:39 PM.
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Old Feb 22, 2009 | 12:44 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by monkyman
I don't know man, the frame looks a little dirty there. Wheres your pride??
Funny chit !!
 
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Old Feb 22, 2009 | 02:12 PM
  #13  
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good shortcuts...
 
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Old Feb 22, 2009 | 02:40 PM
  #14  
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Great thread

I'll give it a second attempt myself now. I struck out last weekend trying to get a power cord to the battery for the sub.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2009 | 06:22 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Dock Holiday
Great thread

I'll give it a second attempt myself now. I struck out last weekend trying to get a power cord to the battery for the sub.
It's gonna take some wiggling, fiddling and fussing if you're keeping the tank in place. Just keep messing around with it and you'll get it through.

I used a fiberglass fish tape and started at the battery end. Once it was up to the neck and I could see it, I pulled it a little more, e-taped my three wires (staggering them so the bundle gradually got bigger) and I pulled them back through. It's tight, but I'm through!
 
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Old Feb 22, 2009 | 07:34 PM
  #16  
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If your not taking the tank off to run them properly in the wire trays and keeping them safe from chafing I at least hope that your running a fuse at the battery terminal?

Hate to see some thing arc and spark on the bottom of the tank an start an electrical fire under the tank!!

My $0.02....
 
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 04:15 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Dock Holiday
Great thread

I'll give it a second attempt myself now. I struck out last weekend trying to get a power cord to the battery for the sub.
Did you get it through Dock??
 
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 05:04 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by leon anthony
jyou can remove the tank in 30 min
Then you could put the fuel line crossover quick disconnect in, and will be a breeze next time you want to remove the tank.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 07:34 PM
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I must be the only guy that didn't see the need to pull the tank to do this? I just thought it was MUCH easier to pull the console instead of the entire tank. No?
 
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 09:13 PM
  #20  
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I ran a 10ga.and a 12 ga wire in vinyl wire loom along the rear brake line then followed the clutch cable into the fairing. a few cable ties and don't even notice it there. The 10ga. wire feeds an amp and the 12ga wire goes to a little water proof fuse block I made that feeds an acc. plug,power to a Zumo and power to a sirius radio.I mounted the fuse block w/velcro up under the fairing on the left upper fork tube. Easy to troubleshoot without having to take off the seat or outer fairing. I used the acc plug under the seat.
 
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