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Take note or your thread. Majority of the bolts you are replacing you will never again, hence I recommend locktite. Anti seize it for application that you will removed down the road without failure the locktite will prevent the bolts from vibrating lose.
From: South of Raleigh, and west of the coast, NC.
Originally Posted by roadking1893
Take note or your thread. Majority of the bolts you are replacing you will never again, hence I recommend locktite. Anti seize it for application that you will removed down the road without failure the locktite will prevent the bolts from vibrating lose.
The problem is, most people just put a dab of locktite on the bolt and if you think about it, that works nice if you're just looking to hold something in place (like the bolt from backing out on its own.)
In this case, were looking to prevent chemical reaction between two disimilar metals which means that the entire bolt really should be coated. I think anti-sieze works best for that and I believe (my opinion only) that it also will hold the bolt in place. I myself use a copper based anti-sieze on the clutch cover bolts of the primary and have had no problem with them loosening. if you do choose locktite, consider buying it in "glue stick" form and try to coat the whole length of threads. otherwise, you will leave parts that are still bare metal to bare metal.
If your using stainless or chrome plated steel id use blue lock tite.. The real issues with stainless is stainless to stainless like bolts and nuts . Then you get galling issues.. Im wondering why your chasing all the threads of your chrome hardware? If quality control is up to snuff then they take in consideration plating on the threads and it shouldnt be a problem.. But if you have lots of free time and trust no one then have fun...
Dave
Galvanic corrossion will only happen with water or moisture present. Stainless/aluminum are the worst combination and antisieze is best. I base my product application on the part in question. Primary cover bolts are not expose to the type of vibration that will loosen them , with the exception of the long ones that goe into the engine, maybe. The rest will remain tight. Same thing with sparkplugs. When's the last time you had a sparkplug vibrate out? While loctite will provide some anti corrossive bearier, it tends to chew up some thread on removal due to extra friction if the part is removed many times. Blue removable is the most you want to use here. Either one will do the job, and a comprimise can be reached as in antisieze on the shoulders and loctite on the threads will take care of both problems at once.
Ron
i vote for anti seize and a torque wrench. after removing the derby cover bolts at the 1000 mile service, i put anti seize on them for replacing. now have over 25000 miles and have never had a problem with the bolts loosening up, or removing them when necessary.
Originally Posted by n8dc
The real issues with stainless is stainless to stainless like bolts and nuts . Then you get galling issues..
i thought the galling problem was when you had 2 different metals, like stainless to aluminum?
i vote for anti seize and a torque wrench. after removing the derby cover bolts at the 1000 mile service, i put anti seize on them for replacing. now have over 25000 miles and have never had a problem with the bolts loosening up, or removing them when necessary.
i thought the galling problem was when you had 2 different metals, like stainless to aluminum?
Galling is when the threads burn together chewing the crap up and sometimes seizing. Stainless to stainless and bare aluminum to aluminum are just plain nasty. These are a clear cut must have antiseize treatment, period. You are thinking of the terms electolosis and galvanic corrossion of two different metals. Electrons travel between the two and the softer one will corrode with a white chalky texture.
Ron
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