I did have a 1000K service, but the dealer was so bad...ripped seat, deep scratches in fork lowers, fairing seal poorly reinstalled, etc, etc,...so perhaps they didn't do it. It really wouldn't surprise me with this dealer.

I have 3K on it now...I hope it's only an adjustment issue...

thanks,

 

Sometimes syn in the clutch may slip the clutch. If you are havin this problem hot, I suspect 2 things: 1) your clucth is not adjust properly. It is ok when cool, casue it is close, but when 2) you are so hot that the either the clutch material is glazed or warped discs. If it was up to me I would adjust the clutch first, and if no luck try ATF-type F. It will make the clutch material grip better. I have been using in my scoot for years and in my high performance TH-400. If that does not help, new clutch discs.

 

I would say clutch adjustment. Dealers are known to NOT adjust clutches. 20/50 Amsoil in motor and primary. Severe Gear 75/90 in the transmission. Ran that in my 2001 FLHR and the cam tensioners still looked descent with 46000 miles on them.. Good Luck..

 

+1 on clutch adjustment! Mine did it within hours of picking it up from the dealer the first day I had it. 80+ degree San Antonio downtown traffic...same thing as you.

Short term fix is to adjust at the cable...all you need is a 9/16 and 1/2 inch wrench....this should fix the problem of the bike trying to pull when clutch lever is pulled in.

Once you are back from Daytona do the whole clutch adjustment procedure in the service manual.

 

Went out yesterday morning to my neighborhood dealer...and had doughnuts, coffee, and mentioned my problem. Mostly I was asking about the adjustment ensuring I understood it so I could do it.

They decided they'd take a look...which ended up being good for both of us...their event cook didn't show (customer appreciation where they fire up burgers and hot dogs)...so I said..go look it over and I'll cook a while.

Several things...they said it all needed adjustment..so they did the cable and the clutch. Lever used to engage at 2mm out,,,now it's about half way out...I like that fine.

Then a couple of other things...they've built many 103,107, and 110's..even a few 131s. they state that for the 103 I really don't need the se HD clutch springs. They now recommend that a customer pass on those, instead keeping the initiial stock ones and swear they have no issues. Even the owners and directors pass on those in their own bikes. So if I even need to service anything in that area, I'll remove them and see how I do.

The other thing is what you guys are saying...use something different in the transmission. Since this bike has syn throughout...they'd like to remove at next service and use any of the suggestisons you guys are making. Use gear oil in the primary, not engine oil...that's their stance.

After the burgers and dogs...and the adjustment (they did that for free) I rode about 6 hours. Did'nt get into to a hot situation to see if the clutch will still drag...but they seem to think they've solve it with the adjustment.

It felt fine...and the weather was more than perfect...

Saw all the bikes heading home from Daytona all over the place..what a great site...seeing that many bikes out.

Thanks for the responses on this. Well gonna saddle up on hit it...last day till work...

 

Sounds like you did well. I can second the stock clutch springs. I have over 15k on my 103 build, and although I dont do 2 up I do run it hard and havent had any issues.

 

Sounds like clutch adjustment, pull your cable away from the housing seat ( on the bars ) if you have more than a 1/8 inch gap, it needs adjusting...

 

All the big clutch manufacturers say NO synthetic in the primary's. Synthetic promotes cluch slippage. All synthetic's have friction reducers in them. Everyone is listening to Harley way too much.
If your engine is shutting down one cylinder in traffic, it's probably because your engine is overheating. The heat from your engine is going to transfer to your primary which inturn overheats your clutch.
If your using syn-3, get it out of your bike ASAP. Very crappy oil.
Try Dynacycle Oil, Mobil 1 or Amsoil.

 

So if I am not able to move the bike in gear with the clutch pulled in & it jumps forward a little if I try to start the bike in 1st with the clutch pulled all the way in I need to adjust it?

 

Yes you do.