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if you get it hot enough to where you gotta use asbestos lined welding gloves to remove it, then you probably got it too hot. sorry just couldn't help it.
I had the same problem right before bike week at Daytona
I just took the insert out and used some super glue on insert and stuck it back in the cavity . I let it dry over night and it has not come loose yet and I have taken it apart since then, put it back together, no problems.
Last edited by Darth Vader; May 6, 2009 at 04:46 AM.
get a small easy-out for broken bolts from harbor freight for $3 just tap in and they wind out if you just pull it you take some of the plastic with it making the hole bigger
I tried pulling on a bolt with vise grips, but it wasn't coming out easily and I didn't want to enlarge the hole by twisitng the bolt back and forth. I figured I'd want the whole nice and tight when I put the new insert in.
I ended up threading a longer bolt in carfully watching as the bolt bottomed it pushed the old insert out easily.
As others have said, instal a bolt with a jam nut on it in the new insert , then just thread it in slot first.
The replacement insert that you would need is #16585-96. It has an external 3/8-16 thread for threading into the fairing cavity and an internal thread for the fairing screw. It is a self tapping insert. Contrary to popular belief, the slot in the insert is NOT for a screw driver. It is for the self tapping application. The best way to install this is to screw a hex head screw into the insert and drive the insert into the cavity using a socket wrench on the hex head screw.
When at the HD shop to pick up my first of these brass replacement nuts a tech who was loitering around the parts counter told me to use a screwdriver and insert it closed-end first, the opposite of what you've just described. You're right, of course, and I figured that out after staring at it for only a few seconds. I used the windshield bolt that actually goes into the fitting to thread the nut into the plastic outer fairing, as you said with the slotted end going in first. The manual says to enlarge the hole a bit with a drill bit slightly larger than the hole and I did that too.
I also had a problem with the two bottom bolts, those hard-to-get-to Torx bolts down between the forks. Those nuts started spinning on me and after removing the outer fairing discovered that the plastic connecting point had split. I globbed a bunch of JB Weld around it before screwing in the replacement nut, which should hold it and hopefully keep it from splitting again. The left side was also spinning but the plastic wasn't cracked. I still don't know what caused the crack since I don't over-tighten these bolts, but I suspect it is the shaky idle these '07's have that must tax those plastic connecting points. Anyone else have trouble with this?
You can try several different things. You can try jacking it out by threading a longer bolt into it and tightening the bolt into the bottom of the hole. Another method is to heat the insert area with a hair dryer and pulling the insert out. This is my preferred method.
What worked well for me is to use a metal sleeve that's just a bit larger diameter than the nut insert but smaller than the outer diameter of the plastic connecting point. Use a bolt long enough to screw in securely but short enough to make contact with the sleeve. When you tighten up on the bolt the nut slides right on out.
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