Just got home from the Dyno.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,410
Likes: 8
From: Knoxville, TN
The torque curve that I refer to, should be a flatter line.
Torque should shoot straight up then level off, for a couple thousand RPM.
Here is my dyno, look how my torque curve flatlines.
This is a carb'd bike.
Also, I think you'd get better numbers with a 2:1 exhaust.
Torque should shoot straight up then level off, for a couple thousand RPM.
Here is my dyno, look how my torque curve flatlines.
This is a carb'd bike.
Also, I think you'd get better numbers with a 2:1 exhaust.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 160
Likes: 0
From: Roswell, Ga
I'm sure I'd get the better numbers with the 2-1 also, I think that's a major factor in my tq curve dropping off a bit. Rineharts suck IMHO, but that's what I'm stuck with until I get some more cash saved up. The map is whacko still after the tune, at 100% throttle the bike wants +30 on fuel at 2250rpm and up but there is a small window below that where we took fuel out, I think there is still some serious reversion issues that could use correction, but sa la vie, I will live to buy parts another day. For now I can do wicked burnouts and little wheelies. Here are two simlar builds and you'll see almost the same results. 3 different dyno operators.
Last edited by Landfill_Tim; May 17, 2009 at 10:40 PM.
First off, your tuner printed your sheet off in STD mode, that is a unit of measure that isused in Europe and other countries. In the U.S. we use SAE. STD is typically 2 -3 % higher. I always question American tuners that use this, is it because they don't know any better or is it because they want thier numbers to apperar higher to make thier shop look better? Secondly, your lines are choppy as hell, this could be caused by a number og things, the wrong air pressure in the rear tire, the bike bouncing on the drum, or your ignition timing is off. If I made a pass and saw lines that squiggly I would be looking into the cause. I'll post a copy of a couple of dyno's I did awhile back, (they are the only ones I have on this computer). You'll notice the smooth lines, not choppy. That is one of the signs of a proper tune.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 4,722
Likes: 5
From: Biddeford, Maine
Secondly, your lines are choppy as hell, this could be caused by a number og things, the wrong air pressure in the rear tire, the bike bouncing on the drum, or your ignition timing is off. If I made a pass and saw lines that squiggly I would be looking into the cause. I'll post a copy of a couple of dyno's I did awhile back, (they are the only ones I have on this computer). You'll notice the smooth lines, not choppy. That is one of the signs of a proper tune.
Steve
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Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 160
Likes: 0
From: Roswell, Ga
i'm guilty of the smoothing issue, When it was turned up, it smoothed the liines and brought me down about 1hp and 1 tq. That is why the line is choppy. As to the Sae/STD thing I'll have to see if it can be modified. Thanks.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 10,449
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From: Roswell, GA
Bottom line: if you're happy with the bike's performance, I wouldn't be more or less happy based on a variance in dyno numbers based on smoothing/SAE/STD, etc.
Road Warrior
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,373
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From: Northern Virginia
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My bad, I didn't catch the smoothing. In that case it looks pretty good. He can print it in SAE by changing it in the properties, shouldn't be a problem.
For the rest, I know it's just a piece of paper, but I disagree that if you like the way it pulls, don't mess with it. If the tune is way out, it might not pull the way you like it for long. There is more reasons to tune a bike than just for performance, reliability being one of them. If you running way to rich or way to lean or the spark timing is way off, you may be sacrificing some of that reliability. The bottom line is, if you pay for a proper tune, that's what you should get. I'll guarantee you that if you get your bike tunes, and put a few thousand miles on it and have a failure (from the tune) your tuner will NOT take the blame for it and you'll be on your own.
For the rest, I know it's just a piece of paper, but I disagree that if you like the way it pulls, don't mess with it. If the tune is way out, it might not pull the way you like it for long. There is more reasons to tune a bike than just for performance, reliability being one of them. If you running way to rich or way to lean or the spark timing is way off, you may be sacrificing some of that reliability. The bottom line is, if you pay for a proper tune, that's what you should get. I'll guarantee you that if you get your bike tunes, and put a few thousand miles on it and have a failure (from the tune) your tuner will NOT take the blame for it and you'll be on your own.
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Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 160
Likes: 0
From: Roswell, Ga
That's just it, I'm not really worried about the peak number. I just care how the bike feels but a tiny bit of bragging rights it just for fun and that's all. The A/F all through cruise is right as well as the WOT. I'll have to see what the difference is in SAE though. I'm curious about that.
Tim
Tim