Pc v
Well I got my PC V from Fuel moto yesterday. I took my RK for a rip after install I didn't notice any difference from before install and I still have my decell pop.
I followed the directions to the "T" zeroed out the TPS. I didn't mess with any of the other settings. I don't think I missed anything cause I retraced my steps 3 or 4 times and besides the directions are as simple as can be. Did I miss anything?
Maybe I'm expecting to much.
I followed the directions to the "T" zeroed out the TPS. I didn't mess with any of the other settings. I don't think I missed anything cause I retraced my steps 3 or 4 times and besides the directions are as simple as can be. Did I miss anything?
Maybe I'm expecting to much.
Last edited by epsmith; May 31, 2009 at 06:52 AM.
You probaly did not miss anything in your install. Give jamie a call this week if you can't fix things - But remember this weekend was moving weekend for Fuel Moto andthey might not be up to full speed Monday. In the mean time try adding +20 to the (0) zero throttle setting from 750 to 3000 rpm. This usually works on decel pops. Good Luck!! ---Tom
On my 06 RK with PC III from fuelmoto, same thing happened to me. Called Jamie, he had me enrich 10% from 1500-5000 rpm range, smooth as silk after that. Call him, he'll perform one of his magic fixes.
Decel pop is something that totally escapes me, as I've never had it. Some say it is caused by leaks at the exhaust/muffler juncture, others that the settings 0% TP are too lean. Still others say the 0% column is too rich.
I have -10's in the 0% column and it doesn't matter what I put in, I still get no decel pop. I think the best advise is to try the rich setting first, then if that fails try lean like mine. As a last resort remove the mufflers and apply some anti-sieze compound to the joint, which will help seal and insure an easier removal later if needed.
To the OP: What is your configuration? Did you keep the stock AC? What mufflers are you using? In any case the performance should be noticeably better, but the muffler and AC configuration will weigh heavily on how much of an improvement you'll feel.
I have -10's in the 0% column and it doesn't matter what I put in, I still get no decel pop. I think the best advise is to try the rich setting first, then if that fails try lean like mine. As a last resort remove the mufflers and apply some anti-sieze compound to the joint, which will help seal and insure an easier removal later if needed.
To the OP: What is your configuration? Did you keep the stock AC? What mufflers are you using? In any case the performance should be noticeably better, but the muffler and AC configuration will weigh heavily on how much of an improvement you'll feel.
Last edited by iclick; May 31, 2009 at 12:27 PM.
Decel pop is something that totally escapes me, as I've never had it. Some say it is caused by leaks at the exhaust/muffler juncture, others that the settings 0% TP are too lean. Still others say the 0% column is too rich.
I have -10's in the 0% column and it doesn't matter what I put in, I still get no decel pop. I think the best advise is to try the rich setting first, then if that fails try lean like mine. As a last resort remove the mufflers and apply some anti-sieze compound to the joint, which will help seal and insure an easier removal later if needed.
To the OP: What is your configuration? Did you keep the stock AC? What mufflers are you using? In any case the performance should be noticeably better, but the muffler and AC configuration will weigh heavily on how much of an improvement you'll feel.
I have -10's in the 0% column and it doesn't matter what I put in, I still get no decel pop. I think the best advise is to try the rich setting first, then if that fails try lean like mine. As a last resort remove the mufflers and apply some anti-sieze compound to the joint, which will help seal and insure an easier removal later if needed.
To the OP: What is your configuration? Did you keep the stock AC? What mufflers are you using? In any case the performance should be noticeably better, but the muffler and AC configuration will weigh heavily on how much of an improvement you'll feel.
I'll be honest with ya I'm a little sketchy on messing with the canned map as I don't fully understand how the PC works.
I can tear a motor down and put back together in my sleep, but electronic crap not so much.
I've got B&E superflow slip-ons w/stock headers SE AC with a stage 1 download.
I'll be honest with ya I'm a little sketchy on messing with the canned map as I don't fully understand how the PC works.
I can tear a motor down and put back together in my sleep, but electronic crap not so much.
I'll be honest with ya I'm a little sketchy on messing with the canned map as I don't fully understand how the PC works.
I can tear a motor down and put back together in my sleep, but electronic crap not so much.
To start, click on Save Map File and give that original map a unique filename, like "PCV-1a.pvm". Next, click on Fuel > Cylinder 1 > Table and you'll see a chart with 250 numbers. It'll be similar for Cylinder 2 except the values will be different. These represent a percentage change of the values dictated by the ECM, so a "10" would mean that the PCV is adding 10% more fuel at that location (e.g. 2000 RPM @ 10% TP). If it is "-10" it is subtracting 10%, etc. For ignition tables a "10" would be 10° more ignition advance than stock, "-10" being 10° less (retarded).
Look at the "0" column reading down through the RPM range. You can change all numbers in the chart, so what do you see now? My original FM map had 0's up to 2750 RPM's, then "-10" from 3000 on up. Change your values to "20" from 1000-6500 RPM's. Then, click on "Send Map" which will send the changes to your PCV. After that click on "Save Map File" and give it a new filename, like "PCV-1b.pvm". If you change it again use "PCV-1c.pvm", etc., so the highest letter value will always be the most current map. If you get a whole new base map, like if you make a cam upgrade, you could then call it "PCV-2a.pvm".
I also make notes of the changes at the bottom of the PC software, which will be saved with the file. For your PCV-1b you could add a line that says "Changed 0 column to 20 from 1k-3k RPM", or similar.
After a ride if you don't like what you've done click on "Open Map File" and retrieve that original file (PCV-1a.pvm), then "Send Map". At that point you're back to square one and that original map will then be installed in the PCV once again. Or, make other changes to PCV-1b.pvm, Send Map, then Save Map File as "PCV-1c.pvm".
You can hardly screw up as long as you save the files before changing them and make notes in the Notes section so you'll know what you changed.
O.K guys,I dint want to still the thread but I have a one quest ion I hope someone will help,I load map the other day and after riding I check the plugs, the front one looks good little ten color on it I call that perfect but the rear one looks lean just white no color at all,so I am thinking adding little more fuel to #2 will fix the tune little better but how much?and I think I will need to add at all rpm ranges.
any suggestions?
any suggestions?
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O.K guys,I dint want to still the thread but I have a one quest ion I hope someone will help,I load map the other day and after riding I check the plugs, the front one looks good little ten color on it I call that perfect but the rear one looks lean just white no color at all,so I am thinking adding little more fuel to #2 will fix the tune little better but how much?and I think I will need to add at all rpm ranges.
any suggestions?
any suggestions?
I had to add +20 to the 1250 rpm in the 0% column and then did +30% to the rpms from 1300 to 5000 in the 0% column. It cured 98% of my decel pop on my exhuast
Funny thing before I did this it wouldnt decel pop when the engine wasnt at full operating temps, only did it afterwards
Funny thing before I did this it wouldnt decel pop when the engine wasnt at full operating temps, only did it afterwards
Last edited by FLTR2008TRIKE; May 31, 2009 at 09:15 PM.







