Strapping down in toy hauler
Tourer
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 429
Likes: 1
From: California
not a tourer, but...
I'm assuming that it is not a good idea to winch down on the bars due to the continuous compression of the front suspension???? If not, please enlighten me...
Also, my buddy has a new CVO w/Springer front end--- saw him tying down the bars real tight --- I aked him about that not being good for the suspension-- he said it was no problem--- I didn't like the look of it, especially for a LONG trip---
Yes? No?
Also, my buddy has a new CVO w/Springer front end--- saw him tying down the bars real tight --- I aked him about that not being good for the suspension-- he said it was no problem--- I didn't like the look of it, especially for a LONG trip---
Yes? No?
Cruiser
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 182
Likes: 1
From: Arlington, TN
I absolutely recommend getting a wheel chock. I have a Condor with the trailer attachment accessory. I would never go back to "winging it" after using the Condor. Makes trailering easier and more secure. One person can drive into the wheel chock, get off and tie down with no problem. I bought mine last summer before a 1,100 mile trip with my Ultra on a trailer based on recommendations from this here forum. There were a lot of threads about how to best tie down then too. Lots of photos of different methods of securing with tie downs. I attached the trailer anchors forward and slightly out from my passenger floorboard brackets. To tie down, I drove into the chock and used two ratchet straps, one for each side, from the passenger floorboard brackets to the anchors on the trailer. I would check the bike at every fuel stop just to be sure but the bike never moved.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 4,890
Likes: 73
From: MA
I'm assuming that it is not a good idea to winch down on the bars due to the continuous compression of the front suspension???? If not, please enlighten me...
Also, my buddy has a new CVO w/Springer front end--- saw him tying down the bars real tight --- I aked him about that not being good for the suspension-- he said it was no problem--- I didn't like the look of it, especially for a LONG trip---
Yes? No?
Also, my buddy has a new CVO w/Springer front end--- saw him tying down the bars real tight --- I aked him about that not being good for the suspension-- he said it was no problem--- I didn't like the look of it, especially for a LONG trip---
Yes? No?
Most handle bars are 1" diameter with a .04 to .06 wall thickness. It is held in place by a clamp. Putting stress on this "tube" could cause it to bend or rotate downward allowing your straps to loosen, which is a recipe for disaster.
The only time my scoot sees the inside of the trailer is when I have to take it in for service that I can't do myself. Most times I loan it out.
Last edited by soos; Jun 2, 2009 at 07:43 PM.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 15,259
Likes: 5,383
From: Delaware
Chocking the front wheel is an absolute. If you don't the wheel can turn to one side or the other. If this happens, the overall length of the bike, as it is tied, shortens. That will allow your other straps to go slack and your bike to rock around. If the bike starts to rock, disaster is soon to follow.
FIW, I have always used to bars to tie down the frontend. Maybe I've just been lucky, but I've never had a problem. And I always use 6 straps to tie it. 2 on the bars. 2 on the rear, pulling out and forward and 2 more on the front pulling out and to the rear.
I've seen straps slip, break, tear and apparently stretch. I've seen hooks break, tie downs break and bend, eye hooks pull through the flooring, etc. A couple extra straps and a few more minutes are nothing compared to the price of a bike.
FIW, I have always used to bars to tie down the frontend. Maybe I've just been lucky, but I've never had a problem. And I always use 6 straps to tie it. 2 on the bars. 2 on the rear, pulling out and forward and 2 more on the front pulling out and to the rear.
I've seen straps slip, break, tear and apparently stretch. I've seen hooks break, tie downs break and bend, eye hooks pull through the flooring, etc. A couple extra straps and a few more minutes are nothing compared to the price of a bike.
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 832
Likes: 0
From: Long Island
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Joe Kucinski
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,328
Likes: 15
From: Pacific Northwest
I've towed motorcycles for 30+ years and have piled up thousands of miles with bikes in and on trailers. Tying down using the handlebars has never caused any problems and this includes HarleyDavidsons. When trailering Eglides (or anything else) I use a wheel chock (Pingel) and nylon loops (at the bars) with ratchet straps and collapse the forks far enough that a large bump will not let the straps come loose. I also tie down the rear of the bike on long trips. Tying to the bars is not a problem when done properly and it doesn't ruin the rubber bushings. What IS dangerous is tying to the passing light bar or crash bar. The reasons for avoiding these are obvious (or should be). I like the idea of the self clamping wheel chocks and may invest in them but I would back them up with straps in any event.
Road Master
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 922
Likes: 1
From: Riverside, TX
I've towed motorcycles for 30+ years and have piled up thousands of miles with bikes in and on trailers. Tying down using the handlebars has never caused any problems and this includes HarleyDavidsons. When trailering Eglides (or anything else) I use a wheel chock (Pingel) and nylon loops (at the bars) with ratchet straps and collapse the forks far enough that a large bump will not let the straps come loose. I also tie down the rear of the bike on long trips. Tying to the bars is not a problem when done properly and it doesn't ruin the rubber bushings. What IS dangerous is tying to the passing light bar or crash bar. The reasons for avoiding these are obvious (or should be). I like the idea of the self clamping wheel chocks and may invest in them but I would back them up with straps in any event.