It's off topic, but I couldn't figure what went wrong either. I had the wheel straight ahead, the switch went straight in at 12 0'clock with the lock past the unlock position. I had the release tab pushed up with my finger. When I released the tab, the switch rotated without resistance and I was hosed. I think the switch may not have been all the down when I rotated it. I didn't get any audible click and it took some monkeying around to get the switch out so I could challenge my patience with the screwdriver routine.

 

Did mine at 30K, I to feel better doing it earlier than 50K.

 

My son and I changed the fork oil on my '06 Road Glide yesterday.The bike had 40,000 miles on it.I was going to wait for the 50,000 miles service like the manual said.
After reading some other posts about doing it sooner,It was a good idea because that old oil was blacker than black!

After we removed the fairing cap I had to buy a 35mm socket for the fork cap bolts.Changed the the oil and put the new stuff in.I used Spectro type E.Learned it has to be poured in VERY slowly!

We put all the covers on and the handle bars.When we put the Ignition switch back in,could not get the fork lock to lock.We phucked around with this for a good half hour or so.I even did a search here and found a post by someone and tried that suggestion with no luck.Thought I was going to have to buy an alignment tool or god forbid,take to a dealer.
Then the light bulb came on!I noticed that when the bars were turned to the left for the fork lock position,the bars were hitting the chrome gas cap assy.I thought this was not like that before and it may be preventing the lock to engage.Re adjusted the bars and this allowed the more movement to the left and we were able to to use a screwdriver to engage the lock by turning the lower tumbler.Then we aligned the the top tumbler and the switch went right into place.
This morning I will see how the front end reacts with the new fork oil.

 

Come to think of it, I turn the switch to the lock position but don't lock the forks--i.e., keep the forks aimed straight. Maybe that's the difference. That way the switch is in the correct position but the forks can be moved around. This needs to be clarified so everyone understands, as it may be that the switch needs to be in the locked position before removal. If the forks are not at full-left they won't lock regardless of the position of the switch.

 

YES That's what I finally did and with the key in turned it counterclockwise and it came right out. I place it carefully on a rag and then I did move my handlebars fr. side to side to get the wrench on and didn't have any problem putting the switch back in with the key in but the release button doesn't have to be pressed and when you turn the key CW you will hear the click. On a prior attempt I couldn't get the forks unlocked even though I had the switch back in and it would move to all four postions but not ignition or fork locks would work, thought I was SOL then I put the washer and nut on and put it in and finally got it to work.

 

Not trying to beat this to death but save others time. I didn't replace the copper crush washers and one side naturally leaked. I have the chrome metrix hex nut and naturally the dealer didn't have just the washer so bought another set, lifted the bike and was able to switch out w/o losing only a drop of oil. Good luck and I highly recommend this fairly simple fork oil change.

 

You can buy the brass washers at the auto part store...As for the fork locking... i removed the ignition assembly and then the fairing cap then replaced the ignition assembly...I will replace the drain screws with hex heads the next time ...the impact screw driver is a knuckle buster or a fender scratcher, denter...

 

For the philips drain screws I used a philips driver bit in a 1/4 socket.Easy off/easy on.

 

Then your forks weren't built by Loctite Louie.

 

same here, mine were not coming off without the manual impact driver. anyone that could have taken mine off with just a screw driver would have to be one bad dude.