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I use Harley primary oil in the eg,75-90 syn.gear oil in the Sportster no problems,don't see why you could not put that into a bt primary if you wanted to,clutch material is the same.
Running a synthetic in the primary is a waste of money.
I agree with your technical points, and used to make the same statement.
Until it was pointed out that when using Syn in the primary your change interval doubles. So the $$ ROI works out the same for either dino or syn, but the labor is halved when using syn.
I'm a religious convert to the ATF in the primary group. I couldn't believe how smooth my clutch engagement got with the ATF. I thought something was wrong with my clutch when running regular dino oil in the primary. It acted like the plates were warped. Grabby and awful. Tried the ATF and all is right with my ride.
I agree with your technical points, and used to make the same statement.
Until it was pointed out that when using Syn in the primary your change interval doubles. So the $$ ROI works out the same for either dino or syn, but the labor is halved when using syn.
This makes the 5 qt jug of M1 15W-50 attractive.
I change out my crank with Mobil1 15w/50 twice a year (every 5K) and the primary and tranny once a year at end of season after approximately 10K.
Where does it say your intervals double with SYN3? Can you provide data? My manual states primary change every 10K whick I fall into and the tranny every 20K, so I am changing that early. Not a great expense there.
Where does it say your intervals double with SYN3? ... My manual states primary change every 10K whick I fall into and the tranny every 20K
Those appear to be the intervals specified in HP bulletin 849:
Code:
Please inform all dealership personnel that the extended service intervals for SYN3 have been approved through the Harley-Davidson Motor Company are as follows:
All Big Twin:
Crankcase: Replace after first 1,000 break-in, then every 5,000 thereafter (unchanged)
Primary: Replace after first 1,000 break-in,
then every 10,000 thereafter or prior to winter or
extended storage periods
Transmission: Replace after first 1,000 break-in, then every 20,000 thereafter or prior to winter or
extended storage periods
and fwiw, I mentioned syn (vs. dino), not necessarily referring to SYN3.
I agree with your technical points, and used to make the same statement.
Until it was pointed out that when using Syn in the primary your change interval doubles. So the $$ ROI works out the same for either dino or syn, but the labor is halved when using syn.
This makes the 5 qt jug of M1 15W-50 attractive.
Except that there seems to be some disagreement on using it in the primary.
I still like the idea of using a synthetic in the primary, not sure about M1 15W-50 tho.
Thanks for all the replys. I have put about 200 miles on since I changed the primary to 15w-50 and so far it seems to work great. I don't notice any issues or slipping yet. I like the idea of spending $22 for a 5 gal jug of oil which will fill the crank and primary. Add $10.50 for a chrome filter and you have a very cheap oil and primary change. I paid $12.00 for the redline in the trans. I would hate to see what the dealer would have charged for this. It only took me 2 beers to do the work myself and it was very easy. Have a great weekend.
-sunnenman
Those appear to be the intervals specified in HP bulletin 849:
Code:
Please inform all dealership personnel that the extended service intervals for SYN3 have been approved through the Harley-Davidson Motor Company are as follows:
All Big Twin:
Crankcase: Replace after first 1,000 break-in, then every 5,000 thereafter (unchanged)
Primary: Replace after first 1,000 break-in,
then every 10,000 thereafter or prior to winter or
extended storage periods
Transmission: Replace after first 1,000 break-in, then every 20,000 thereafter or prior to winter or
extended storage periods
and fwiw, I mentioned syn (vs. dino), not necessarily referring to SYN3.
My mistake on the SYN3 reference, but that 10K and 20K from my owners manual have no reference to using synthetic whether SYN3 or another brand over dino. Since my scoot came thru with dino my intervals as stated in my manual should reflect the use of dino oils. The MoCo didn't double the interval, they doubled the cost of the oil used.
I personally don't think we need high-tech oil in the primary, and I use a common fossil 20w50 which works very well. All you need is something to cool the cluch disks and lube the chain, which doesn't take much. A friend who's an engine builder uses ATF Type F with success.
The use of some additives like moly is good for the engine but has no place as a coolant for clutch disks. That said, I've never heard of an HD owner who's had a problem with using a high-grade synthetic in the primary, except possibly one. Someone in a recent thread here mentioned clutch slippage after swapping cams (to 255's), and he was using Amsoil 20w50. He was going to try a more mundane oil and report back but if he did I never saw his response. There was no indication that the oil was the culprit, but I have the same engine/cam setup and have no clutch slippage.
That was me Iclick. When I had the clutch slippage I decided to switch to Formula 1 and I replaced the stock diaphram with the SE high perf diaphram at the same time. I have to believe the slippage was due to the clutch spring and not the oil. All is good now.
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