Anyone out there running with this set-up? I've been monkeying with AFR and Timing tables for the past month and a half and still can't get this thing nailed down. At partial throttle the bike absolutely hauls ***, throughout the entire RPM range. But as you twist the wick past 30% the engine begins to bog down. To me, it seems like it's getting to much fuel, but past 20% TPS AFRs are 14.7.
Attached is a screenshot of the fuel table that the Auto tune has created for the front cyliner. I'm concerned that for one reason or another the Auto Tune is not doing it's job. Perhaps the 'cat in the mid-pipe is causing issues?

 

I'd like to see your Target AFR table(s). You've posted two tables for Cyl. 1, so what's up with that?

I'm not running an HQ cam set, but why are you using 14.7 past 20%? That's even a bit high in the cruise range, but beyond 15-20% TP I'm not surprised you are getting some hesitation, as that's too lean for a roll-on. Here's my Target AFR table, used for both cylinders:



I'm running SE255 cams, which aren't the same but should be close enough for a trial, as they run well in my '07. Plug these values in and let us know how it runs. Be advised that without an oil cooler you may find these near-stock cruise-range AFR's to be a bit on the lean side and immoderate heat may be a side-effect.

 

IClick, I appreciate you taking the time to give me some feedback. I posted two screen shots of Cylinder 1 because I couldn't fit the entire table, from 0%-100% in the same picture. I'll have to upload a picture of my Target AFR's when I get home, but from memory all of the area's under 20% are 14.0. I left the columns that were originally zeroes unchanged. After that, they are 14.7.

I'm using 14.7 past 20% because I don't know what the hell I am doing.

 

I uploaded the Target AFR's you suggested IClick, for both cylinders. To be quite honest I saw no improvement or decline after 30 miles or so. What's really confusing is that the motor seems to perform better at 15%-20% throttle than it does from 20% to WOT. The bike no **** accelerates faster at 1/4 twist than it does at full wrap on the throttle.

Below is the new table auto tune made for the front cylinder. Looking at the 2% TPS column, is it normal to have a jump from -55 to -72 to -20 in a span of 500rpms?

 

I would PM Phil M or Dalton, they are the HQ cam experts...Hope this helps!

 

I think those big negatives at low TP can't be right, as they are way different from mine, but that doesn't address the power issues you're having. My '07 ECU programming is different from yours and I would expect a difference, but not this much. That Target AFR map that I sent you should run as well as it does in my bike, and I have no hesitation issues. OTOH I see nothing in the map that you provided that would cause your bike to accelerate more slowly above ź-throttle than below it.

I think I would deactivate AT and go find a canned map on the PC site for your cams, or something close, and give it a try. If it runs fine with a canned map with no AT, perhaps AT is at fault, but I don't think that is the problem. It's tempting to at least suspect that there is a problem with the cam install, except that the hesitation is apparently related to TP, not RPM. I assume that if you hold 1/4-throttle as RPM's build and have no problems, and hesitation occurs only as the throttle is rolled on regardless of RPM, it isn't something related to the cam install.

Sumping also comes to mind, but I would think that would also be RPM-related. Have you noticed oil temps running higher than normal? If the o-rings in the cam plate or oil pump are not positioned properly you can have sumping, which is more oil going into the crankcase than can be scavenged out. When this happens performance is decreased as the flywheel crashes against the accumulated oil, how much depending on how much oil is present, and if enough oil temps can skyrocket. To find out if it is sumping, take a ride that fully warms the bike. Remove the plug directly under the crankcase, but be careful since it is a steel plug going into aluminum and cross-threading it is not something you want to think about, much less do. A good drain quantity is ~4 oz., and anything over 6-8 oz. would cross the line of acceptability.

Did you buy the PCV from Fuel Moto? If so, call them first--then if they can't help call DynoJet. From my experience both of these have excellent CS. I can't imagine that this is a PCV problem, though. Give HQ a call, too, as I've heard their CS is also good.

I'm really just throwing ideas out since I'm mostly stumped at this time.

 

Per your advice IClick I disabled the auto tune and loaded the base map that Jamie sent me when I told him I had changed the cams. FM doesn't have a map for this particular cam set, but I do recall Jamie telling me he had one that's close. At any rate, after a 45 minute ride I could feel a difference in the way the bike behaved and I didn't have EITMS kick in once. It's in the mid 80s today and had I been running the old map that auto tune made, surely EITMS would have cut me down to one cylinder several times today.

You're correct in assuming that @ 1/4 throttle the motor continues to spool up. I'm confident that it's not a cam install issue, but a fuel or perhaps timing ailment. It has crossed my mind to take it to a local shop that has a dyno and let them create a map. But that really defeats the purpose of spending the money on the auto tune, and I'm unsure of their reputation. I'll call FM on monday and see if Jamie has any suggestions.

To beat a dead horse some more, does anyone else have concerns that the catalyst may be throwing off the 02 sensors? This is on a california bike, and I believe it's the first year the cat is in the midpipe, not the mufflers themselves.

 

I spoke with Jamie at FM today and he's convinced there is a "reversion" in my exhaust. From what I understand that means gases are backing up or building up in the header pipes, probably because of the catalyst. He's sending me a map for a similar cam set and advised me to disable auto tune, just like IClick. We'll see how it runs after a new map. If it runs considerably better, I'll be making a stop at my buddy's who owns a band saw and a welder! Currently CA bikes are not required to be smogged and may stay that way for a few years. Goodbye catalyst!

 

Interesting. I didn't know catalyst-equipped bikes had reversion problems, and I don't understand how it could happen since you would think the cat element would act as a barrier for air to go back as far as the sensor. I would like for someone to explain this to me, as I admittedly have no idea how the cat pipes are contructed.

Will it pass the emissions test without the cat?

 

IClick, there was a thread on here that showed a step by step removal of the catalyst by a member who cut open his midpipe and welded it back up. I saw what the cat looked like when I pulled my exhaust to swap cams. It's a dark as night, honeycomb configuration that looks obstructive as hell. My guess is that it's about a foot long. I had to use a flashlight to see it, but it's there.

Regarding emissions, I have no clue whether it'd pass or not. From what I understand, the early 2000 bikes had the cat in the muffler. If I have to buy an old pair of slip ons to pass smog, that's what I'll do.