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I bought the Lyndal floating rotors because I warped two sets of one piece rotors. The Lyndal's have a lifetime warranty. I didn't see a big difference in braking but they haven't warped yet.
I'm going thru the same problem. Gone thru 2 set of one piece rotors in 5000 miles. Who did you buy the Lyndall's from?
I changed over to floating rotors when I added a chrome front end. The cables were already stainless steel because of my 16" Wild1 bars. Although braking improvement is difficult to quantify, because they are floating rotors the pads don't wear more on one side than the other, which they did with solid rotors. And they are HD floating "Classic" model rotors that are likely made by Lyndall.
These are Harley "floating" rotors and they work great. No noise, No pulsing.
I think they look good too. What do you think?
Contrary to what has been written before in this thread, they are designed to allow the outer ring to move separately from the inner. So, they do accomplish the same thing as the "true floaters" that cost twice as much. I'm happy so that's all that really matters.
Last edited by sifularson; Jul 23, 2009 at 11:43 PM.
These are Harley "floating" rotors and they work great. No noise, No pulsing.
I think they look good too. What do you think?
Contrary to what has been written before in this thread, they are designed to allow the outer ring to move separately from the inner. So, they do accomplish the same thing as the "true floaters" that cost twice as much. I'm happy so that's all that really matters.
have you ever seen real floating rotors? if you had the opportunity to grab a set of lyndalls or russels by the hand you would see what i mean by the ones you have not being "true floaters". i had the same ones you did but i was aware of what i was buying, a cool looking set of rotors that were pretty cheap....
check out this link for info on the difference between full floaters and semi floaters like the ones in your pic
"they are designed to allow the outer ring to move separately from the inner. So, they do accomplish the same thing as the "true floaters" that cost twice as much."
As davewear stated correctly these HD "Simi-Floating" rotors do not "Float". The friction ring is separated from the carrier by "Precision Rivets" (by HD literature). The carrier and friction ring is stamped out from sheets and as already discused by myself with other members HERE and many other postings. Too bad many post when they have no direct knowlage on what they are posting about.
The very most importaint part of the post is when HDF Member sifularson Stated: "I'm happy so that's all that really matters". That is all that matters for his application!
i was about to get a pair of the harley floating rotors for my sg. but then i got ta thinking, hmm, these stock rotors are paid for, and it costs me nothing to use them. they're stainless so they won't rust, so i saved 280 bux by just using what i got. for now anyway. sure they might look slick, but if they aren't an improvement on function, then i can keep the money and use it elsewhere. just my two cents worth.
i was about to get a pair of the harley floating rotors for my sg. but then i got ta thinking, hmm, these stock rotors are paid for, and it costs me nothing to use them. they're stainless so they won't rust, so i saved 280 bux by just using what i got. for now anyway. sure they might look slick, but if they aren't an improvement on function, then i can keep the money and use it elsewhere. just my two cents worth.
Floating rotors provide a means of reducing the thermal load by aligning with the non-floating calipers. By lining up the rotor with the caliper both sides of the caliper contribute equally to the stopping power and distribute the heat.
Now, who needs them.
If your like the look, go for it. I like the look.
If your burning up rotors (warping) this is the next step. If your carving 50mph corners at 90mph this is better braking control.
Lyndall's are really good and have a lifetime guarentee, but at ~$500 are outside my budget.
But the rotor is only a part of the braking system, good master cylinder, steel lines, good calipers and pads. The less heat you generate while gaining on stopping power, while not locking up the tire - the better.
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