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Change that fork oil!

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Old Aug 13, 2009 | 07:07 PM
  #51  
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Okay,everyone talks about using a miti-vac. I have one I got from somewhere and never used it.

Anyone have link/instructions?
 
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Old Aug 13, 2009 | 07:11 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by Unome
Okay,everyone talks about using a miti-vac. I have one I got from somewhere and never used it.

Anyone have link/instructions?
Psst - for this job it's not worth the hassle. Just read the info and follow my lead as I'm bullheaded and had to learn the hard way on a couple of points.
 
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Old Aug 13, 2009 | 10:20 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by sgdiesel
Beware of the cynic! As true as all these factors may appear from the outside, if you choose to specialise in this field a whole new world opens up to you!

I am not fully conversant with the exact design of the forks in the HD touring range but traditionally...

Forks (and all suspension for that matter) needs to dissipate energy based on 2 variables, namely displacememt (crudely simplified as "how deep is that pothole") and velocity, (namely "how steep are the sides of that pothole"). If you have the benefit of studying fluid dymamic theory you will begin to understand the dashpot principle which essentisally boils down to a frictional resistance based on the resistance between 2 closely spaced mechanical components seperated by a viscous fluid. In the case of a fork, the inner and outer sleeve are seperated by the fork oil, and the rate at which they move relative to each other is damped by the fluid. This takes care or the "velocity" component, the old fashioned forked used to have a spring inside which took care of the "displacement" component. Look at a typical car shock absorber which has the outer coil spring and the inner damper. Take out the spring and the car would sag down, take out the damper and the car would bounce up and down like a yoyo each time it hit a bump - 2 different but complimentry functions

So, why use fork oil vs engine oil vs cooking oil for that matter. Each lubricant carries additives which facilitate performance in a specific environment. In the case of fork oil, shear strength (tearing resistance) is really important.

In summary, do not be cynical about working fluids. They are not "the same thing in a different bottle" - use the right stuff. The additives in the fluid are very different and designed specifically for each application
The fact still stands--ATF has a long history of use in motorcycle forks. Maybe someone could detect a performance difference under race track conditions, but I'll wager not on the road.
 
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Old Aug 14, 2009 | 04:29 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by Uncle Scrooge
The fact still stands--ATF has a long history of use in motorcycle forks. Maybe someone could detect a performance difference under race track conditions, but I'll wager not on the road.
I haven't heard that but I am not sufficiently informed to comment either way! In simple terms though, it is important to understand that the primary function of the oil in a fork application is to facilitate the dashpot effect, not to act as a lubricant. In so doing, the qualities I would expect the oil to have would be:

Shear strength enhanced
Possibly a Viscosity Index builder
Anti foaming

Does ATF have the same additives in the same proportions, I really don't know but I doubt it. On that basis I would argue that there is no point deviating from what is specified by HD for the sake of saving pennies.

I find it amazing that people will spend hours and lots of money discussing front end instability, wobbles, methods of stabilising etc and then be complete relaxed about putting non specified oil in something which absolutely could have an impact!
 
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Old Aug 14, 2009 | 04:38 AM
  #55  
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Would I be able to use the easy-change method on the stock forks on my 06 FLHRI as described in previous posts?
 
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Old Aug 14, 2009 | 09:06 PM
  #56  
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I just changed mine per IClick's write up. Except I already had the radio out as I sent it in to iron Cross Audio for some work. Went pretty smooth and I refilled it with SE Heavy. my oil that came out looked similar to the 1st post. All in all a very easy change. If I read it right somewhere here that HD was charging close to $300.00 for this service??? That is absolutely absurd as far as I am concerned. If you can change your other fluids this is a walk in the park with IClick's write up. Great job again to IClick for the post!!!!
 
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Old Aug 14, 2009 | 11:07 PM
  #57  
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My brother has an 09 ultra classic. He did not like the dive he felt in the front end on braking and had the fork oil changed to SE 15wt. He loves it. Any other recommendations out there? My 09 RK rides great but I want to change the oil out. I am considering Racetech fork oil. Experiences would be appreciated.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2009 | 01:02 AM
  #58  
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I'm going to change my fork oil and if anyone has done an 08 Ultra that can share any do's and don't, that would be cool. I have the book, so it should not be a big deal, but sometimes those harley books don't tell all, if you know what I mean .
 
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Old Aug 15, 2009 | 03:32 AM
  #59  
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The workshop manual for my 09 RK states I have to remove the fork legs for an oil change, that and the need to remove all the headlight shroud etc means this will have to wait till winter. I am guessing it will take me a good few hours.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2009 | 06:07 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by WildBill2566
The workshop manual for my 09 RK states I have to remove the fork legs for an oil change, that and the need to remove all the headlight shroud etc means this will have to wait till winter. I am guessing it will take me a good few hours.
I think you'll find this to be for the recommended 50K mile service and inspection. I don't believe it applies at earlier interval replacement or upgrading.

I ran 225 miles today and really enjoyed the handling and ride compared to the stock oil. It just seamed more connected to the road. I hit a curve a little hotter than I wanted to, I just leaned hard and she hung in there great.
 
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