change brakes
change brakes
Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,393
Likes: 38
From: The real N.CA (not S.F. Bay Area)
Do you just need to change your brake pads, or are you wanting to do something more extensive?
Here's a site that may help you. Just scroll down till you get to the brake section. There's a few things you can click on that may work for you.
http://76.162.149.2/gpage1.html
Here's a site that may help you. Just scroll down till you get to the brake section. There's a few things you can click on that may work for you.
http://76.162.149.2/gpage1.html
Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,599
Likes: 7
From: Hoffman Estates, IL
Take it from a mechanical moron who should generally leave tools to people far less dangerous with tools - There's nothing to it. The instructions that came with the pads were better than what was in the service manual. Give yourself an hour for the whole job (all three sets).
Two things to make sure of: (1) Get those pistons IN before you take out the old pads. You can just put a large-blade slotted screwdriver between the old pads and force them apart. Sometimes it takes "a few tries" to get them to really get back in - But make damn sure they're in. Frequently, they'll feel "locked in place" for a few moments and then suddenly, in they go. But you'll know when they sink in. (2) Once you put the calipers back on, press the pedal and/or squeeze the lever several times to make sure you have solid, firm pressure before moving the bike. Seems second nature, I know - But I know a guy who waited until he was (very slowly) running the bike down the drive... No brakes for the first few squeezes and then locked 'em up - No damage or anything, but he was pretty spooked for a while there...
Generally, you don't even need to crack the master cylinders. If you can't build pressure, you might have to bleed the lines - But don't bother if you don't need to.
Changing those pads are without a doubt, one of the easiest, least "messy" piece-o'-cake maintenance jobs you can do. Once you do it the first time, you'll wonder why you'd ever pay someone else to do it.
Oh - (3) Protect that fender - Having someone there to give you a hand (holding the calipers while you're grabbing a tool or what not) is pretty handy...
Two things to make sure of: (1) Get those pistons IN before you take out the old pads. You can just put a large-blade slotted screwdriver between the old pads and force them apart. Sometimes it takes "a few tries" to get them to really get back in - But make damn sure they're in. Frequently, they'll feel "locked in place" for a few moments and then suddenly, in they go. But you'll know when they sink in. (2) Once you put the calipers back on, press the pedal and/or squeeze the lever several times to make sure you have solid, firm pressure before moving the bike. Seems second nature, I know - But I know a guy who waited until he was (very slowly) running the bike down the drive... No brakes for the first few squeezes and then locked 'em up - No damage or anything, but he was pretty spooked for a while there...
Generally, you don't even need to crack the master cylinders. If you can't build pressure, you might have to bleed the lines - But don't bother if you don't need to.
Changing those pads are without a doubt, one of the easiest, least "messy" piece-o'-cake maintenance jobs you can do. Once you do it the first time, you'll wonder why you'd ever pay someone else to do it.
Oh - (3) Protect that fender - Having someone there to give you a hand (holding the calipers while you're grabbing a tool or what not) is pretty handy...
Last edited by JohnScrip; Aug 30, 2009 at 01:49 AM.
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