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Compression Release Question

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Old Sep 21, 2009 | 07:16 AM
  #11  
1flhtk4me's Avatar
1flhtk4me
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Originally Posted by ddwyer
I don't know if the original tech put loctite on them or not, but when I reinstalled, loctite was used.
Red Loctite was used mine.
Can be removed with the engine hot.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2009 | 08:38 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by ddwyer
I have a 103 build with manual compression releases. When the bike is hot, the compression releases tend to remain open when I fire her up. This happens until I crack the throttle. Is this normal operation?
A simple solution that has worked well for me is to spray a little WD-40 on the releases when ever they seem to be somewhat sticky. It has worked great and I only need to spray them maybe twice a season. Also helps keep the corrosion down on the compression release exteriors.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2009 | 02:29 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Heatwave
A simple solution that has worked well for me is to spray a little WD-40 on the releases when ever they seem to be somewhat sticky. It has worked great and I only need to spray them maybe twice a season. Also helps keep the corrosion down on the compression release exteriors.
+1. I had the same issue on my front cylinder after warm up. A bit of WD-40 and manually cycling took care of the need to crack the throttle to close the valve.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2009 | 03:39 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by ddwyer
Zach - thanks for the hint on this one. I noticed the other day that it sounds like I have some air leaking when I accelerate hard. The engine really sounds like she's hitting hard. Any hints on checking for an intake leak? I have the Heavy Breather. Do I just inspect the gaskets and such?
With the engine idling, spray some carb cleaner around the intake seals. If the idle speed increases as the carb cleaner is hitting the seal(s), you have a leak. You need to make sure to shield the AC element from getting sprayed to get the optimum results. If you have a leak, first thing I would do is look for a loose bolt, but don't over-tighten them. If that doesn't do it, replace both intake seals.

Zach
 
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Old Sep 22, 2009 | 05:25 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Biggzed
With the engine idling, spray some carb cleaner around the intake seals. If the idle speed increases as the carb cleaner is hitting the seal(s), you have a leak. You need to make sure to shield the AC element from getting sprayed to get the optimum results. If you have a leak, first thing I would do is look for a loose bolt, but don't over-tighten them. If that doesn't do it, replace both intake seals.

Zach
Thanks, I'll give that a shot tonight or tomorrow, and see what happens.
 
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Old Sep 22, 2009 | 06:48 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by ddwyer
Thanks - just wanted to make sure I'm not hurting the engine. I already had the original compression release on the rear, pop out of the engine. I don't know if the original tech put loctite on them or not, but when I reinstalled, loctite was used.
Even if they stayed open it would not hurt the motor other than make a mess.I would still take your out and loosen them up if you can.
 
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Old Sep 27, 2009 | 11:42 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Biggzed
With the engine idling, spray some carb cleaner around the intake seals. If the idle speed increases as the carb cleaner is hitting the seal(s), you have a leak. You need to make sure to shield the AC element from getting sprayed to get the optimum results. If you have a leak, first thing I would do is look for a loose bolt, but don't over-tighten them. If that doesn't do it, replace both intake seals.

Zach
Upon inspection, I found that the nuts holding my rear exhaust pipe to the head were loose and the bottom nut was missing. That was where my leak was coming from. I tightened that up, and it appears to have fixed the issue. I did have some difficulty tightening the lower rear flange nut, but its held on a couple of rides, so I think I'm in good shape.
 
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