Shed some light
Thread Starter
|
Supporter
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,423
Likes: 77
From: NW Ontario
Shed some light
I'm hoping someone can shed some light on this one......a month ago had the 103 Big Bore Kit with 255 cams done at a dealer. They mistakenly only did a Stage I for a 103 when it actually called for a Stage II. They also changed my stock headpipe (09) and replaced it with a headpipe from 2010 that has a catalyst in it. I called MoCo and asked if I could switch back to my stock headpipe and they basically said "not advisable" and that the mapping was wrong and contact the dealer. The dealer is now going to download the proper Stage II download and has offered to put the stock headpipe back on (on the q t). Anyone else ever experience the same mixup. The bike appears to run fine. Any difference in Stage I for a 103 over a Stage II? Appreciate any/all comments on this one.
Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,345
Likes: 0
From: Metro Denver
Wow...that sux! Not sure what to tell you about the head pipe. If you have an '09 UC, why the hell would the MoCo tell you that you 'need' the 2010 headpipe? Something sounds fishy (unless you're living in Kalifornia, which might be a result of new requirements in Kali)! :S
I would 'work' with the dealer to fix the situation, get it 'right' ... then (unfortunately) I would go to a different dealer or Indy and have the bike dyno'd to verify that they actually did the job correctly. I wouldn't trust the original dealer at this point, as the mechanics 'should' know what the hell they're doing and it doesn't give me a warm-fuzzy that they really do.
If nothing else, a good Indy "Dyno" run will make sure that the work the original dealer did 'was' done correctly and only cost you the dyno time (should be less then $200, I would expect).
Good luck and let us know how things turn out.
I would 'work' with the dealer to fix the situation, get it 'right' ... then (unfortunately) I would go to a different dealer or Indy and have the bike dyno'd to verify that they actually did the job correctly. I wouldn't trust the original dealer at this point, as the mechanics 'should' know what the hell they're doing and it doesn't give me a warm-fuzzy that they really do.
If nothing else, a good Indy "Dyno" run will make sure that the work the original dealer did 'was' done correctly and only cost you the dyno time (should be less then $200, I would expect).
Good luck and let us know how things turn out.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
