www.Mcmaster.com

1) Oring number 905 - PN 1201T293
2) Oring number 109 - PN 1201T45

 

...since HD does not sell only the o-ring -
"Isn't that typical of these Stealerships?"

 

Moderators please feel free to put this anywhere it needs to be.. Ive had a great time helping everyone with fuel connector issues here but its time to post it . I am available to anyone here though if you have other questions or problems with the fuel fittings and all it takes is an email or a PM.. (n8dc-8@comcast.net) will get you a quicker response.. Ill be glad to help if I can..

heres the info and pics I made.. One thing here.. Beware the o-ring that retains the piston or poppet if you will in the lower black part is a special O-ring.. You can get close but unless you order from the company thats making them (at a hi cost) for the company that makes the actual part your not going to have the perfect size.. That said thru my past association with the maker of the part I have a few o-rings in my work tool chest yet and if its a dire emergency and nothing else can be found I can help you out . That is till my supply runs out ..
Im sure its the ethanol in the new fuels thats eating the o-rings and also sometimes when removing and rehooking the line the o-ring can become damaged.. If your ordering from McMaster Carr id suggest going the extra mile and buying the Viton o-rings instead of the Buna N that H/D uses. Im really amazed after being pretty involved in these connectors that H/D wants no quality issues but doesnt want to pay for viton o-rings..
Ok heres the info!


Many thanks to n8dc for his help and research. What he told me is that the o ring is size -905. They can be ordered from McMaster.com. Insider diameter is .414", outside diameter is .558" and thickness is .072".

The smaller o ring that holds the poppet or piston in is a - 109 with a .299 od and a .505 od.

I purchsed Harley part number 11273 for $1.33 but they could not give me the specs on that o ring. Since our store is only about a mile away from the John Deere machinery dealer, I stopped by there and purchased Deere part number R26286 for $0.85 because Deere could give me the specs.

R26286 has the proper I.S. diameter of .414" and the proper thickness of .072", so I installed it and my leaking problem is solved. Coincidently, I lined up the Harley 11273 next to the Deere R26286 and the standard o ring on the oil drain plug and, while I didn't use a micrometer, all 3 appeared to be exactly the same size so I suspect good results could be had with each of them.

For others attempting this fix, I used a dental pick to remove the old o ring and found a huge chunk had been taken out of it. The removal took all of 3 seconds. Then the fun began. n8dc gave me a great suggestion to get the new o ring seated. Following his advice, I pushed the ring into the female connector and, using my wife's cosmetic mirror, manipulated it with the dental pick until I got one edge partially seated in the groove in the wall of the connector.

I then used the dental pic and pulled the o ring down into the groove as best I could until I had perhaps 20-25% of the ring seated in the groove. n8dc suggested using a 9/32 quarter inch socket to push the unseated portion of the o ring up into the groove. I tried that repeatedly without success.

What worked for me was to use my little finger to push the unseated portion up into the groove. A little fuel leaked out in the process, but it popped right in the first time I abandoned the socket and used my little finger. I popped in the fuel line and it was a tight fit but the leaking has stopped. Total time involved was probably 20 minutes.

 

HTF do you justify blaming the dealerships for something the MOTOR COMPANY deosnt offer?

 

I have the same problem on my 2000 RKC. I was told that the valves need to be replaced and that the tank needs to be removed in order to replace the valves. Is this true? The quick disconnect valve looks like it could just unscrew. Help please!
Thanks,
Brian

 

I would suspect all you have to do is remove the tank to have access but you could remove the valve instead I suppose.

 

You do not need to remove the tank, but you do need to open the tank up and pull the fuel pump and cut the clamp that holds the fuel line from the pump to the quick disconnect. Then you can unscrew the fitting. If all you are doing is replacing the o-ring in the fitting you can do that using a pick or toothpick to remove the old ring. I use a toothpick so as not to scratch the fitting. Once removed I oil the new ring and slide it up with a Allen wrench.

 

The 11273 oring fixed it. For now anyway. Ran the bike for 5 minutes and no leak. I tried toothpick as tool, but oring had hardened too much. Needed dental tool and scribe to remove. Toothpick and carefully used dental tool for install. Thank you everybody for the help. First time using forum for help, and appreciate the time people took to advise on this issue. I did not have the same luck removing in 3 seconds, was more like 20 minutes. So to replace both took about an hour, ton of patience, son holding flashlight, and my wife staying indoors. Otherwise could have taken 2 hrs!

 

LOL

 

A very helpful thread, and thank you n8dc for clarifying this issue. My 2011 FXDWG started leaking yesterday, and I've already drained the tank in preparation for replacing the entire valve/hose assembly. I'm going to give this a try today and see if I can save myself a LOT of trouble.