Major gas leak
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 5,456
Likes: 2,860
From: SW FL-Jersey Shore Emigre
Here's a follow up to my last post. I just finished installing a new O-ring, the one that the MOCO uses for the drain plug (11273) , and yes, I did mike it and it has the same dimensions (ID .414", OD .558" and thickness .072".) as n8dc mentioned in his post. The entire job took 45 minutes, would have been shorter but I removed the damaged (see photo) O-ring "backwards" sitting on an upside-down bucket with a flashlight, dental mirror, and automotive pick. Having learned my lesson, I installed the new o-ring lying on my back looking up at the valve, took about 5 minutes. I put a little petroleum jelly on the O-ring to smooth the placement a bit. Bike started right up, no leaking (yet). My only concern is that the o-ring is rubber, rather than viton or nitrile, but I suppose if rubber is good enough for the MOCO, it's good enough for me, at least for now.
Find below photos of the old o-ring, and thanks, the Forum does it again!!
Find below photos of the old o-ring, and thanks, the Forum does it again!!
Tourer
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 473
Likes: 57
From: Utah
Here's a follow up to my last post. I just finished installing a new O-ring, the one that the MOCO uses for the drain plug (11273) , and yes, I did mike it and it has the same dimensions (ID .414", OD .558" and thickness .072".) as n8dc mentioned in his post. The entire job took 45 minutes, would have been shorter but I removed the damaged (see photo) O-ring "backwards" sitting on an upside-down bucket with a flashlight, dental mirror, and automotive pick. Having learned my lesson, I installed the new o-ring lying on my back looking up at the valve, took about 5 minutes. I put a little petroleum jelly on the O-ring to smooth the placement a bit. Bike started right up, no leaking (yet). My only concern is that the o-ring is rubber, rather than viton or nitrile, but I suppose if rubber is good enough for the MOCO, it's good enough for me, at least for now.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 5,456
Likes: 2,860
From: SW FL-Jersey Shore Emigre
I had ordered a check valve/hose assembly, and get some viton o-rings from McMaster-Carr, and keep things handy just in case....
Road Master
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 925
Likes: 15
From: So. Fla.
Grainger dot com has the o-rings also.
1WHN3 - O-Ring, Viton, AS568A-905, Round, Pk25, $5.04
1BYH8 - O-Ring, Viton, AS568A-109, Round, pk50, $9.86
Yay me! I can fix this myself. :-)
CBud +1, Fuel leak 0! Ha! Thank you Debbie from Autozone.
1BYH8 - O-Ring, Viton, AS568A-109, Round, pk50, $9.86
Yay me! I can fix this myself. :-)
CBud +1, Fuel leak 0! Ha! Thank you Debbie from Autozone.
Last edited by CBud; Jul 21, 2013 at 04:48 PM.
Intermediate
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
From: TEXAS
Great help from this posting
Moderators please feel free to put this anywhere it needs to be.. Ive had a great time helping everyone with fuel connector issues here but its time to post it . I am available to anyone here though if you have other questions or problems with the fuel fittings and all it takes is an email or a PM.. (n8dc-8@comcast.net) will get you a quicker response.. Ill be glad to help if I can..
heres the info and pics I made.. One thing here.. Beware the o-ring that retains the piston or poppet if you will in the lower black part is a special O-ring.. You can get close but unless you order from the company thats making them (at a hi cost) for the company that makes the actual part your not going to have the perfect size.. That said thru my past association with the maker of the part I have a few o-rings in my work tool chest yet and if its a dire emergency and nothing else can be found I can help you out . That is till my supply runs out
..
Im sure its the ethanol in the new fuels thats eating the o-rings and also sometimes when removing and rehooking the line the o-ring can become damaged.. If your ordering from McMaster Carr id suggest going the extra mile and buying the Viton o-rings instead of the Buna N that H/D uses. Im really amazed after being pretty involved in these connectors that H/D wants no quality issues but doesnt want to pay for viton o-rings..
Ok heres the info!
Many thanks to n8dc for his help and research. What he told me is that the o ring is size -905. They can be ordered from McMaster.com. Insider diameter is .414", outside diameter is .558" and thickness is .072".
The smaller o ring that holds the poppet or piston in is a - 109 with a .299 od and a .505 od.
I purchsed Harley part number 11273 for $1.33 but they could not give me the specs on that o ring. Since our store is only about a mile away from the John Deere machinery dealer, I stopped by there and purchased Deere part number R26286 for $0.85 because Deere could give me the specs.
R26286 has the proper I.S. diameter of .414" and the proper thickness of .072", so I installed it and my leaking problem is solved. Coincidently, I lined up the Harley 11273 next to the Deere R26286 and the standard o ring on the oil drain plug and, while I didn't use a micrometer, all 3 appeared to be exactly the same size so I suspect good results could be had with each of them.
For others attempting this fix, I used a dental pick to remove the old o ring and found a huge chunk had been taken out of it. The removal took all of 3 seconds. Then the fun began. n8dc gave me a great suggestion to get the new o ring seated. Following his advice, I pushed the ring into the female connector and, using my wife's cosmetic mirror, manipulated it with the dental pick until I got one edge partially seated in the groove in the wall of the connector.
I then used the dental pic and pulled the o ring down into the groove as best I could until I had perhaps 20-25% of the ring seated in the groove. n8dc suggested using a 9/32 quarter inch socket to push the unseated portion of the o ring up into the groove. I tried that repeatedly without success.
What worked for me was to use my little finger to push the unseated portion up into the groove. A little fuel leaked out in the process, but it popped right in the first time I abandoned the socket and used my little finger. I popped in the fuel line and it was a tight fit but the leaking has stopped. Total time involved was probably 20 minutes.
heres the info and pics I made.. One thing here.. Beware the o-ring that retains the piston or poppet if you will in the lower black part is a special O-ring.. You can get close but unless you order from the company thats making them (at a hi cost) for the company that makes the actual part your not going to have the perfect size.. That said thru my past association with the maker of the part I have a few o-rings in my work tool chest yet and if its a dire emergency and nothing else can be found I can help you out . That is till my supply runs out
.. Im sure its the ethanol in the new fuels thats eating the o-rings and also sometimes when removing and rehooking the line the o-ring can become damaged.. If your ordering from McMaster Carr id suggest going the extra mile and buying the Viton o-rings instead of the Buna N that H/D uses. Im really amazed after being pretty involved in these connectors that H/D wants no quality issues but doesnt want to pay for viton o-rings..
Ok heres the info!
Many thanks to n8dc for his help and research. What he told me is that the o ring is size -905. They can be ordered from McMaster.com. Insider diameter is .414", outside diameter is .558" and thickness is .072".
The smaller o ring that holds the poppet or piston in is a - 109 with a .299 od and a .505 od.
I purchsed Harley part number 11273 for $1.33 but they could not give me the specs on that o ring. Since our store is only about a mile away from the John Deere machinery dealer, I stopped by there and purchased Deere part number R26286 for $0.85 because Deere could give me the specs.
R26286 has the proper I.S. diameter of .414" and the proper thickness of .072", so I installed it and my leaking problem is solved. Coincidently, I lined up the Harley 11273 next to the Deere R26286 and the standard o ring on the oil drain plug and, while I didn't use a micrometer, all 3 appeared to be exactly the same size so I suspect good results could be had with each of them.
For others attempting this fix, I used a dental pick to remove the old o ring and found a huge chunk had been taken out of it. The removal took all of 3 seconds. Then the fun began. n8dc gave me a great suggestion to get the new o ring seated. Following his advice, I pushed the ring into the female connector and, using my wife's cosmetic mirror, manipulated it with the dental pick until I got one edge partially seated in the groove in the wall of the connector.
I then used the dental pic and pulled the o ring down into the groove as best I could until I had perhaps 20-25% of the ring seated in the groove. n8dc suggested using a 9/32 quarter inch socket to push the unseated portion of the o ring up into the groove. I tried that repeatedly without success.
What worked for me was to use my little finger to push the unseated portion up into the groove. A little fuel leaked out in the process, but it popped right in the first time I abandoned the socket and used my little finger. I popped in the fuel line and it was a tight fit but the leaking has stopped. Total time involved was probably 20 minutes.
I would like to personally thank Dave for posting thiswonderful and very much helpful post. I emailed him and he not only answered meemails promptly, I might add but he even called me and took time out of his dayto help me even more. I didnt even know there were two o rings when I startedthis and was stumped because the oring I took out was in great shape. When Ireinstalled it the leak was worse than before and the reason was because of thebad o ring (oil drain plug o ring) that I had no idea was in there. With Daveshelp I went to my local dealership and picked one up. I found and replaced theo ring when I got home within in minutes and rode my bike to work the next day.Another reason I enjoy being a part of these types of forums.
Kudos to you Dave, my new found friend from miles away!!!
Sincerely,
Johnmon..
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 9,568
Likes: 7,936
From: Long Island, New York
Reviving an old post. You guys are the best!!!!
Reinstalling gas tank and it started leaking at the fuel supply quick disconnect. Got on the forum, ran a search and found this thread.
Went to dealership, no part # on their end. Gave them the # from this thread and it is on their computer and they have one!!!
Come home, take tank back off for better access and wife with little fingers and good eyes removes the old O ring and installs new one in less than five minutes. She used two mini screwdrivers, similar to eye glass screw drivers.
Overall spent $1.06 and thanks to the forum it did not become a one week research fest to figure out the problem and potential solutions.
Big thanks to all who posted information.
Reinstalling gas tank and it started leaking at the fuel supply quick disconnect. Got on the forum, ran a search and found this thread.
Went to dealership, no part # on their end. Gave them the # from this thread and it is on their computer and they have one!!!
Come home, take tank back off for better access and wife with little fingers and good eyes removes the old O ring and installs new one in less than five minutes. She used two mini screwdrivers, similar to eye glass screw drivers.
Overall spent $1.06 and thanks to the forum it did not become a one week research fest to figure out the problem and potential solutions.
Big thanks to all who posted information.
Stage II
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: Npoli
Orings for street bob 2008
Moderators please feel free to put this anywhere it needs to be.. Ive had a great time helping everyone with fuel connector issues here but its time to post it . I am available to anyone here though if you have other questions or problems with the fuel fittings and all it takes is an email or a PM.. (n8dc-8@comcast.net) will get you a quicker response.. Ill be glad to help if I can..
heres the info and pics I made.. One thing here.. Beware the o-ring that retains the piston or poppet if you will in the lower black part is a special O-ring.. You can get close but unless you order from the company thats making them (at a hi cost) for the company that makes the actual part your not going to have the perfect size.. That said thru my past association with the maker of the part I have a few o-rings in my work tool chest yet and if its a dire emergency and nothing else can be found I can help you out . That is till my supply runs out..
Im sure its the ethanol in the new fuels thats eating the o-rings and also sometimes when removing and rehooking the line the o-ring can become damaged.. If your ordering from McMaster Carr id suggest going the extra mile and buying the Viton o-rings instead of the Buna N that H/D uses. Im really amazed after being pretty involved in these connectors that H/D wants no quality issues but doesnt want to pay for viton o-rings..
Ok heres the info!
Many thanks to n8dc for his help and research. What he told me is that the o ring is size -905. They can be ordered from McMaster.com. Insider diameter is .414", outside diameter is .558" and thickness is .072".
The smaller o ring that holds the poppet or piston in is a - 109 with a .299 od and a .505 od.
I purchsed Harley part number 11273 for $1.33 but they could not give me the specs on that o ring. Since our store is only about a mile away from the John Deere machinery dealer, I stopped by there and purchased Deere part number R26286 for $0.85 because Deere could give me the specs.
R26286 has the proper I.S. diameter of .414" and the proper thickness of .072", so I installed it and my leaking problem is solved. Coincidently, I lined up the Harley 11273 next to the Deere R26286 and the standard o ring on the oil drain plug and, while I didn't use a micrometer, all 3 appeared to be exactly the same size so I suspect good results could be had with each of them.
For others attempting this fix, I used a dental pick to remove the old o ring and found a huge chunk had been taken out of it. The removal took all of 3 seconds. Then the fun began. n8dc gave me a great suggestion to get the new o ring seated. Following his advice, I pushed the ring into the female connector and, using my wife's cosmetic mirror, manipulated it with the dental pick until I got one edge partially seated in the groove in the wall of the connector.
I then used the dental pic and pulled the o ring down into the groove as best I could until I had perhaps 20-25% of the ring seated in the groove. n8dc suggested using a 9/32 quarter inch socket to push the unseated portion of the o ring up into the groove. I tried that repeatedly without success.
What worked for me was to use my little finger to push the unseated portion up into the groove. A little fuel leaked out in the process, but it popped right in the first time I abandoned the socket and used my little finger. I popped in the fuel line and it was a tight fit but the leaking has stopped. Total time involved was probably 20 minutes.
heres the info and pics I made.. One thing here.. Beware the o-ring that retains the piston or poppet if you will in the lower black part is a special O-ring.. You can get close but unless you order from the company thats making them (at a hi cost) for the company that makes the actual part your not going to have the perfect size.. That said thru my past association with the maker of the part I have a few o-rings in my work tool chest yet and if its a dire emergency and nothing else can be found I can help you out . That is till my supply runs out
..Im sure its the ethanol in the new fuels thats eating the o-rings and also sometimes when removing and rehooking the line the o-ring can become damaged.. If your ordering from McMaster Carr id suggest going the extra mile and buying the Viton o-rings instead of the Buna N that H/D uses. Im really amazed after being pretty involved in these connectors that H/D wants no quality issues but doesnt want to pay for viton o-rings..
Ok heres the info!
Many thanks to n8dc for his help and research. What he told me is that the o ring is size -905. They can be ordered from McMaster.com. Insider diameter is .414", outside diameter is .558" and thickness is .072".
The smaller o ring that holds the poppet or piston in is a - 109 with a .299 od and a .505 od.
I purchsed Harley part number 11273 for $1.33 but they could not give me the specs on that o ring. Since our store is only about a mile away from the John Deere machinery dealer, I stopped by there and purchased Deere part number R26286 for $0.85 because Deere could give me the specs.
R26286 has the proper I.S. diameter of .414" and the proper thickness of .072", so I installed it and my leaking problem is solved. Coincidently, I lined up the Harley 11273 next to the Deere R26286 and the standard o ring on the oil drain plug and, while I didn't use a micrometer, all 3 appeared to be exactly the same size so I suspect good results could be had with each of them.
For others attempting this fix, I used a dental pick to remove the old o ring and found a huge chunk had been taken out of it. The removal took all of 3 seconds. Then the fun began. n8dc gave me a great suggestion to get the new o ring seated. Following his advice, I pushed the ring into the female connector and, using my wife's cosmetic mirror, manipulated it with the dental pick until I got one edge partially seated in the groove in the wall of the connector.
I then used the dental pic and pulled the o ring down into the groove as best I could until I had perhaps 20-25% of the ring seated in the groove. n8dc suggested using a 9/32 quarter inch socket to push the unseated portion of the o ring up into the groove. I tried that repeatedly without success.
What worked for me was to use my little finger to push the unseated portion up into the groove. A little fuel leaked out in the process, but it popped right in the first time I abandoned the socket and used my little finger. I popped in the fuel line and it was a tight fit but the leaking has stopped. Total time involved was probably 20 minutes.
Hi, I've the same problem for my street bob 2008, and want know the two part number , understand for one R26286, but the other? please tell me the correct ref.
1) R26286 -> Oring number 905 - PN 1201T293 / .414 .558 / .072
2) ?????? -> Oring number 109 - PN 1201T45 / .299 .505 / ???
Thanks
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,806
Likes: 1,754
From: New Bern NC
For the price you can just order this and replace both 'O' rings, the spring and the plunger.
https://www.denniskirk.com/fuel-tool...RoCMX8QAvD_BwE
https://www.denniskirk.com/fuel-tool...RoCMX8QAvD_BwE
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 17,148
Likes: 6,170
From: SE Michigan
For the price you can just order this and replace both 'O' rings, the spring and the plunger.
https://www.denniskirk.com/fuel-tool...RoCMX8QAvD_BwE
https://www.denniskirk.com/fuel-tool...RoCMX8QAvD_BwE
