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Spark plugs /Anti-seize

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  #11  
Old 10-19-2009, 04:55 PM
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Use silver on the threads everytime I inspect and/or change plugs. Just mnake sure you don't get any down by the tip.
 
  #12  
Old 10-19-2009, 05:31 PM
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I just use oil, and dont over tighten the plugs, like many seem to do.
 
  #13  
Old 10-19-2009, 05:54 PM
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You don't have to over tighten for them to get stuck.
 
  #14  
Old 10-19-2009, 06:00 PM
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Always use anti sieze on my plugs and o2 sensors, never thought about the mufflers though. DUD!!!
 
  #15  
Old 10-19-2009, 06:21 PM
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Steel threads/aluminium heads...Anti sieze is a must IMO.
 
  #16  
Old 10-19-2009, 06:26 PM
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Damn. I've been changing spark plugs for over fifty years and never used anything. I probably won't change my bad habits now. Too late.
 
  #17  
Old 10-19-2009, 06:27 PM
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i use the same tub i have had for 15 years permatex silver stuff
 
  #18  
Old 10-19-2009, 06:45 PM
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Always used the "colloidal copper" C5A on my plugs (or anything mating with alum & heat) Regarding the heat range thing, theory is that the plug tip will be hotter because the anti-sieze blocks heat transfer from the plug to the head. Could be, but I've never used a lot of it or given it any thought. Plugs come out ok and bike runs great, good enough for me.
 
  #19  
Old 10-19-2009, 07:11 PM
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I think you should use anti-sieze on every bolt threaded into anything aluminum. I use it all the time. Doesn't really matter what kind - ANY anti-sieze is infinitely better than no anti-sieze


E
 
  #20  
Old 10-19-2009, 07:41 PM
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There was a discussion last week over in the Hacked & Trike section about Harley not using anti-seize on the 103 and as a result, so far about a half a dozen owners have reported galling their pugs upon removal!

What is even more galling (couldn’t resist the pun) is that some dealers are saying that the Harley manual doesn’t call for the plugs to be inspected at the 1k, 5k & 10k inspection and that the book does NOT require anti-seize; which is totally incorrect, the book states: inspect and anti-seize!
 


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