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I thank you all for your comments. Very educational. In all my engines, I have always been a stickler on oil. New bikes dumped at 500--go to syn at 2000. Hot, ya, I'll say. Since 07 they really run hotter. Seen Sturgis and parade bikes boiling out thier oil. Don't ever want that to happen to me. Once my bikes go off warrantee, I try to run something that's the "best". From Mobile 1 to Redlines, etc, never had internal problem, and with all previous problems with cam bearings etc. changing oil is cheap protection. I may be beating a dead horse for I've had so many bikes in the past 40 years and I only keep them about 2-3 years and I don't beat em. So I may just be taking care of the bike for the next owner. But like I said, it's cheap protection. To the original topic, money is not my main concern. I just wondered if Rotella met Harley requirments. From the posts it looks like it may and some have logged many miles using it. My Tahoe has oil life indicator and according to that I could put 8,000 miles between changes on reg oil. I would never do that. Harley gets changed every 2,500, Vette and Tahoe every 3,000.
When my 09 ULTRA goes off warrantee I may go to Rotella. I guess the only true test would be identical bikes with over 100,000 miles, reg/syn/Rotella- with no internal failers. Run what makes ya feel good, I guess. Thanks
My wife used to have an old chevy beretta years ago and I had a 1/2 of a 5 gallon bucket of Rotella brought home from work. After putting some in her car during an oil change (because it was free), it started marking it's spot in the garage. Not clear on why this was, but switching her back to regular car oil eventually minimized the oil drips on the floor.
Your results may vary,..... but the way I see it, if it's formulated for a truck - put it in a truck!
It's really not that complicated. They even write that chit on the label.
For those of you that still have a problem figuring it out, here is a hint: Bikes have only 2 or 3 wheels, trucks have up to 18 (or more).
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