Detailing--rejex polymer sealant
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Tourer
Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Malibu, CA
Detailing--rejex polymer sealant
There have been several threads about detailing where the product "REJEX" has been discussed. It sounds like it is a very good product; however, since it is a "sealant," I'm wondering what you should be using in between applications of the Rejex. In other words, the Rejex is supposed to last for six months. As I understand it, you aren't supposed to use it as a regular cleaning/polishing routine. Right now, for example, I may polish my bike with different cleaning/wax products every couple of weeks or so. (I'm just kind of obsessed with cleaning my bike as I find it to be a big stress reliever.) But as I understand the Rejex product, you use it once; and then you don't use it again for six months. If that's the case, what should one use in between Rejex applications? A quick detailer (like Macguire's or the Harley product)? Lemon pledge? I assume you shouldn't be using wax on top of the Rejex. I'd like to try the product, but I'd like to first know how you should maintain your bike in between Rejex applications. Thanks.
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Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Baton Rouge, LA
I've been using Rejex on all non-porous surfaces of my SG for about 18 months, and although it is a superior product it requires a few rules one must follow in its application and subsequent care.
Basically, it must be applied to a clean, dry surface that's <85°F and remain below 85° for 12 hours free of moisture and sunlight. After calling the Rejex folks and asking questions prior to purchasing, my procedure now goes like this:
1. Prep the surface with a "Dawn wash" (Dawn dishwashing liquid, one capful per gallon of water), which removes everything except the paint (old sealants or waxes, grease, etc.). It is a powerful cleaner and should not be used until just before re-applying Rejex. Rince thoroughly, of course.
2. I routinely apply in Oct. and April in the evening when I know the air temp in my garage will be <85° for 12 hours curing time. It wipes on like a normal car wax and you wipe it off once it dries. I usually apply two coats on surfaces that are pelted by bugs and other debris, one coat for all other non-porous surfaces. Non-porous items would include the windshield, painted parts, and chrome (even on the engine). It should not be used on an unpainted inner-fairing, soft plastic, rubber, or leather surfaces.
3. Water, sunlight, and heat are not favorable for the liquid product or the curing process. After curing is completed it can handle anything--wind, water, and bugs on surfaces <600°F. I always squeeze all the air out of the bottle when finished and store it in a ziplock bag in my refrigerator (not freezer).
4. For general maintenance I wash the bike with a typical car-wash concentrate, about one capful per gallon of water. These are mild and won't remove the sealant. For quicker cleaning I use a microfiber cloth moistened with water, as that's all you need to remove even love bugs, and most insects can be cleaned with only a dry California duster. IMO Rejex does work as advertised. Other liquids like Windex may remove Rejex prematurely, and I can't speculate on the wisdom of using Lemon Pledge, etc. I don't feel the need to use these products anymore, although Rejex support told me the detailers would be okay to use and I sometimes do.
All this sounds like a PITA but it really isn't. Just apply it when cool, dry, and not in the sunlight--and let it cure under these conditions for 12 hours. "Cool" also means when the bike is thoroughly cooled down, not just air temperature.
Rejex gives a very high-gloss finish to the painted surfaces, as good or better than anything I've ever used. I also have noticed that Rejex acts as an anti-static agent and dust doesn't adhere to the surfaces as readily as typical auto-wax products. This is especially gratifying for those of us with dark paint that shows every molecule of dust.
You could use Rejex more often as you suggest, as I don't think this practice would hurt anything, but I don't believe it is necessary. Since it isn't particularly cheap I'm only applying it once every six months, and it seems to hold up well for that length of time.
Basically, it must be applied to a clean, dry surface that's <85°F and remain below 85° for 12 hours free of moisture and sunlight. After calling the Rejex folks and asking questions prior to purchasing, my procedure now goes like this:
1. Prep the surface with a "Dawn wash" (Dawn dishwashing liquid, one capful per gallon of water), which removes everything except the paint (old sealants or waxes, grease, etc.). It is a powerful cleaner and should not be used until just before re-applying Rejex. Rince thoroughly, of course.
2. I routinely apply in Oct. and April in the evening when I know the air temp in my garage will be <85° for 12 hours curing time. It wipes on like a normal car wax and you wipe it off once it dries. I usually apply two coats on surfaces that are pelted by bugs and other debris, one coat for all other non-porous surfaces. Non-porous items would include the windshield, painted parts, and chrome (even on the engine). It should not be used on an unpainted inner-fairing, soft plastic, rubber, or leather surfaces.
3. Water, sunlight, and heat are not favorable for the liquid product or the curing process. After curing is completed it can handle anything--wind, water, and bugs on surfaces <600°F. I always squeeze all the air out of the bottle when finished and store it in a ziplock bag in my refrigerator (not freezer).
4. For general maintenance I wash the bike with a typical car-wash concentrate, about one capful per gallon of water. These are mild and won't remove the sealant. For quicker cleaning I use a microfiber cloth moistened with water, as that's all you need to remove even love bugs, and most insects can be cleaned with only a dry California duster. IMO Rejex does work as advertised. Other liquids like Windex may remove Rejex prematurely, and I can't speculate on the wisdom of using Lemon Pledge, etc. I don't feel the need to use these products anymore, although Rejex support told me the detailers would be okay to use and I sometimes do.
All this sounds like a PITA but it really isn't. Just apply it when cool, dry, and not in the sunlight--and let it cure under these conditions for 12 hours. "Cool" also means when the bike is thoroughly cooled down, not just air temperature.
Rejex gives a very high-gloss finish to the painted surfaces, as good or better than anything I've ever used. I also have noticed that Rejex acts as an anti-static agent and dust doesn't adhere to the surfaces as readily as typical auto-wax products. This is especially gratifying for those of us with dark paint that shows every molecule of dust.
You could use Rejex more often as you suggest, as I don't think this practice would hurt anything, but I don't believe it is necessary. Since it isn't particularly cheap I'm only applying it once every six months, and it seems to hold up well for that length of time.
Last edited by iclick; Dec 5, 2009 at 03:17 PM.
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