Touring Ohlins Shocks Review - The Short Version
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,898
From: Bedford UK
Hi iclick,
I think we're on the same wavelength here. I was happy with my bike solo with its original shocks and also with their replacements, but touring 2-up it would always bottom out at some time or other. At one stage I considered having solo shocks and 2-up shocks, but the promise of improved quality all the time, thanks to HDF members, was enough to 'make do' with one pair! The separated gas #3 should give better performance all round if I understand Howard correctly.
I think we're on the same wavelength here. I was happy with my bike solo with its original shocks and also with their replacements, but touring 2-up it would always bottom out at some time or other. At one stage I considered having solo shocks and 2-up shocks, but the promise of improved quality all the time, thanks to HDF members, was enough to 'make do' with one pair! The separated gas #3 should give better performance all round if I understand Howard correctly.
Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 666
Likes: 5
From: Bay Area, CA
a) ... you will NOT-I REPEAT-NOT hit hard parts - particularly when heeled over in a curve on - long before you can take full advantage of an aftermarket suspension.
and ...
b) If you do not have the absolutely most expensive, finely tuned suspension products products on your Harley - EVEN THOUGH I AM PERFECTLY HAPPY WITH PROGRESSIVE SUSPENSION PRODUCTS - your Harley will explode, and your dog will die.
Road Captain
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 577
Likes: 4
I have an 07 Roadglide. Ricor Intiminators up front which are wonderful.
I tried the Progressive 440 shocks in the rear, they were fine, but I couldn't really see any improvement from stock.
I then tried the Works Trackers, which were, for me, noticiably better, particularly on the crappy California freeways.
A good friend is in the process of trying the Ohlins (from Howard). He has also having some issues with the springs, etc, so the jury is out untill it gets figured out. Similar issue as Boomer, as near as I can tell.
I have Ohlins on my BMW 12GS, as well as my Dyna. Had to send the ones on the BMW back to re spring. Real PIA. Free, exept for postage, but still a pain.
I think I agree re: using someone local, at least with Ohlins. They seem to have a pattern of using too stiff springs (I have buddies who have had the issue as well). Ohlins stand behind their product, no issue there, just the pain of shipping back and forth accross the country.
Unfortunately, its not always easy....
I tried the Progressive 440 shocks in the rear, they were fine, but I couldn't really see any improvement from stock.
I then tried the Works Trackers, which were, for me, noticiably better, particularly on the crappy California freeways.
A good friend is in the process of trying the Ohlins (from Howard). He has also having some issues with the springs, etc, so the jury is out untill it gets figured out. Similar issue as Boomer, as near as I can tell.
I have Ohlins on my BMW 12GS, as well as my Dyna. Had to send the ones on the BMW back to re spring. Real PIA. Free, exept for postage, but still a pain.
I think I agree re: using someone local, at least with Ohlins. They seem to have a pattern of using too stiff springs (I have buddies who have had the issue as well). Ohlins stand behind their product, no issue there, just the pain of shipping back and forth accross the country.
Unfortunately, its not always easy....
Novice
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
JASNUSC, it's not too hard to move the C-clip. You do have to jack the bike up or remove the shock. You also need to compress the spring enough to pull down the collar and expose the C-clip. I made my own spring compression tool with some hooks and bolts from my local hardware store. I was able to move the clip with just a small screwdriver and my fingernails.
TIP: I used Howard's suggestion of attaching a zip-tie to the shock shaft to measure the amount of sag and to measure the amount of compression during normal riding.
Like the original poster, I had a fair amount of back-and-forth with Howard and Ohlins before I was happy (the original spring was too hard for me). While I agree that having someone local to deal with would be nice, there is no one local with the expertise. Overall, I was satisfied with the experience and the end result, and there is a definite improvement in ride quality over the stock shocks.
TIP: I used Howard's suggestion of attaching a zip-tie to the shock shaft to measure the amount of sag and to measure the amount of compression during normal riding.
Like the original poster, I had a fair amount of back-and-forth with Howard and Ohlins before I was happy (the original spring was too hard for me). While I agree that having someone local to deal with would be nice, there is no one local with the expertise. Overall, I was satisfied with the experience and the end result, and there is a definite improvement in ride quality over the stock shocks.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 4,741
Likes: 45
From: Indian Land, SC
JASNUSC, it's not too hard to move the C-clip. You do have to jack the bike up or remove the shock. You also need to compress the spring enough to pull down the collar and expose the C-clip. I made my own spring compression tool with some hooks and bolts from my local hardware store. I was able to move the clip with just a small screwdriver and my fingernails.
TIP: I used Howard's suggestion of attaching a zip-tie to the shock shaft to measure the amount of sag and to measure the amount of compression during normal riding.
Like the original poster, I had a fair amount of back-and-forth with Howard and Ohlins before I was happy (the original spring was too hard for me). While I agree that having someone local to deal with would be nice, there is no one local with the expertise. Overall, I was satisfied with the experience and the end result, and there is a definite improvement in ride quality over the stock shocks.
TIP: I used Howard's suggestion of attaching a zip-tie to the shock shaft to measure the amount of sag and to measure the amount of compression during normal riding.
Like the original poster, I had a fair amount of back-and-forth with Howard and Ohlins before I was happy (the original spring was too hard for me). While I agree that having someone local to deal with would be nice, there is no one local with the expertise. Overall, I was satisfied with the experience and the end result, and there is a definite improvement in ride quality over the stock shocks.
Mine have collars which are turned with spanner wrenches that come with the shocks.
Advanced
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
From:
[QUOTE=jasnusc;6178129]RIPP.... You can adjust the c-clip yourself? How is it done? Any pictures?
To move the c-clip is quite easy but it is also hard! What is hard is finding a spring compressor that fits and will not chip the powder coat on the spring. Yes I chipped it, but you cannot see it behind the bags.
I used Pittsburgh strut spring compressor it was almost too big. What I did was clamping the bottom of the shock in a vice and hooked the bottom of the compressor under the jaws of the vice and the top of it in the shock spring. I then compressed the spring just enough to remove it from the c-clip, from there it is easy to slip the c-clip out and then up one notch or two.
I just moved mine one notch and the difference was, the first setting went from being to rigid for one up but good for two up to now the first is great for one up and the 2nd is great for two up. Two up on the first setting is a little soft and one up on the 2nd setting is a little stiff.
To move the c-clip is quite easy but it is also hard! What is hard is finding a spring compressor that fits and will not chip the powder coat on the spring. Yes I chipped it, but you cannot see it behind the bags.
I used Pittsburgh strut spring compressor it was almost too big. What I did was clamping the bottom of the shock in a vice and hooked the bottom of the compressor under the jaws of the vice and the top of it in the shock spring. I then compressed the spring just enough to remove it from the c-clip, from there it is easy to slip the c-clip out and then up one notch or two.
I just moved mine one notch and the difference was, the first setting went from being to rigid for one up but good for two up to now the first is great for one up and the 2nd is great for two up. Two up on the first setting is a little soft and one up on the 2nd setting is a little stiff.
Advanced
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
From:
HDV-Glide--- There is a clip on top of the collar keeping the collars from sliding up. Those are not threads but groves that the c-clip sits in making it very hard to see being that it resides in the grove and is the same shade as the collars.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 4,741
Likes: 45
From: Indian Land, SC
Since the instruction book doesn't mention anything about compressing the springs first, your information is very helpful. By looking at it, it does appear to have threads where you just raise or lower the collars...Maybe Howard will chime in here.....
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Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,898
From: Bedford UK
Of course top shocks cannot possible be any good on all bikes - silly us for thinking otherwise. 
b) If you do not have the absolutely most expensive, finely tuned suspension products products on your Harley - EVEN THOUGH I AM PERFECTLY HAPPY WITH PROGRESSIVE SUSPENSION PRODUCTS - your Harley will explode, and your dog will die.
What is good for the sport bike goose is good for the touring bike gander.
4th Gear
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
One more time.
First full disclosure. I know howard and I was the one that tested Boomer Bobs shocks on my own bike. The sag numbers are exactly as howard stated. The ride was 10 times better than stock shocks in every way. The ride was 5 times better than progressives. Bob has an axe to grind with Howard I dont know why. In his last thread he referred to howard as an *** clown etc. That kind of petty crap got that thread closed by a moderator. New thread same stuff with softer words. He is just trying to hurt Howard's reputation and business. In this new thread he says first " The shocks are top notch. Best I've had the pleasure to ride on."
Then claims " I spent $580 for a set of so-so shocks worth about $250 - $300". I would love to be able to afford these shocks for my bike so heres what I will do. I have a set of slightly used progressives. I will send them to you and $250 in exchange for your Ohlins. Sorry no free shipping nobody gives free shipping. Its figured into the original price if they do. If you think your getting something for free you are deluding yourself. Ohlins are top of the line. At the shop I work at they would sell for about $675. As a brick and mortar store I cant discount like the internet. Aftermarket upgrades often need to be adjusted. Thats why they call it custom.
Then claims " I spent $580 for a set of so-so shocks worth about $250 - $300". I would love to be able to afford these shocks for my bike so heres what I will do. I have a set of slightly used progressives. I will send them to you and $250 in exchange for your Ohlins. Sorry no free shipping nobody gives free shipping. Its figured into the original price if they do. If you think your getting something for free you are deluding yourself. Ohlins are top of the line. At the shop I work at they would sell for about $675. As a brick and mortar store I cant discount like the internet. Aftermarket upgrades often need to be adjusted. Thats why they call it custom.