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Don't disconnect or reconnect the stator plug when the bike is running, it can (and will) fry the stator.
To check stator rotor output:
1) disconnect the stator plug
2) start bike
3) set multi-meter to VAC
4) read across the stator plug (one probe in each hole)
5) have someone rev the bike up to 2000-3000 RPM
6) stator/rotor output should be 16-20 VAC per 1000 RPM
To check for a shorted or grounded stator:
1) set multi-meter to "ohms"
2) read across the stator plug
3) resistance should be 0.2-0.3 ohms
4) now check each stator pin to ground
5) should have no continuity
6) kill engine
7) reconnect stator plug
To check voltage regulator function:
1) set multi-meter to VDC
2) check battery voltage...12.5-13.0 VDC (if the battery isn't fully charged, this test is useless)
3) start bike
4) hold the red lead of the multi-meter to the positive post of the battery and the black lead to the negative post.
5) increase engine RPM to at least 2000 RPM
6) multi-meter will show regulator charging rate which should be 14.2-14.6 VDC. A brand new fully charged battery will sometimes only indicate 14.0 VDC; anything above 14.6 VDC is cooking the battery.
Did the stator go bad first or the regulator?
A bad stator will take out a regulator and a dead short will ruin both.
A bad or intermittent ground on the regulator is never a good idea either.
Puzzled, was able to use your post to isolate my voltage regulator as bad even though it's only 3 yrs. old. Stator tested out; .3 Ohms pin to pin and nothing to ground on either pin. Had bought an "American Made" brand regulator. Will now try a different brand. Symptom was dropping use of turn signals as battery discharged and eventually no headlights either. Luckily it had enough power to get me home. Starter soleniod would just "chatter" with the weakened battery. I cleaned and tightened all battery cable connections, grounds, etc.
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