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Fuel Pump Not Priming

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Old Mar 2, 2010 | 12:01 PM
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clarkchriston's Avatar
clarkchriston
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Default Fuel Pump Not Priming

I poseted this in the tech section with no response so I thought I would try here.

I have 08 Road King Classic and my fuel pump is not priming. Here is the story.

Replaced front levers on bike and yes broke the front brake switch. Called an Indy and he will install new switch for $70.00 (Harley wants to charge me $60 for just the part). Could do it myself but for the price I figured I would let him cut, replace, and splice the wires and then try to stuff all that back in the housing. Make an apointment with for the next morning.

The next day the bike would not start. Turn switch on tank to on, set switch on handlebar to run (hear the fuel pump priming) and all lights are displaying but when I hit start.....nothing. Soooo I pulled the seat to access the battery and have a good charge, next I check the fuse box and sure enough the 15amp battery fuse is blown. Coincidence?

Next day I replaced the blow fuse, turn switch on tank to on, set switch on handlebar to run but now I don't hear the fuel pump priming. All the lights, instruments and signals work fine (except for the front brake because i need to fix switch), just no fuel pump priming. If I hit start the motor will try to kick over but obviously won't start since fuel pump is not working. AARRRRGGGHHHH. If there is enough juice in the battery to try to kick over the motor there should be enough to prime the fuel pump, right?

Any ideas. I checked the fuse at the fusebox and all are good, replaced the relays and even took off the seat off to double check the main cpu was plugged in good and tight. Is there another fuse for the fuel pump that I am missing.....and yes I know buy a manual it's my next purchase.
 

Last edited by clarkchriston; Mar 2, 2010 at 12:04 PM.
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Old Mar 2, 2010 | 12:22 PM
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there's a relay under the fuse block that fires the pump....bet its fried
 
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Old Mar 2, 2010 | 12:33 PM
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Check all the wiring mods you made for open curcuit or shorting. That fuse had to blow for a reason. The two problems could be at the same source, possibly the run switch wiring. Things are really tight in there and easy to get something pinched or cut.
Ron
 
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Old Mar 2, 2010 | 12:35 PM
  #4  
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texas_speed_freak
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Originally Posted by rbabos
Check all the wiring mods you made for open curcuit or shorting. That fuse had to blow for a reason. The two problems could be at the same source, possibly the run switch wiring. Things are really tight in there and easy to get something pinched or cut.
Ron
+1 Check for pinched wires and i bet you find the problem
 
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Old Mar 2, 2010 | 12:39 PM
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FLYING
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I had one that gave ma a headache untill I finally broke down and replaced the pump,then after 2 years still fine!
 
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Old Mar 2, 2010 | 02:09 PM
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Thanks for the responses.

Whistlebritches-is the relay you speak of in the fuse box with the rest of the fuses and relays or is it literally under the fuse box?

Rababos/texas speed freak - Didn't make any wiring mods but did loosen switch housing to swap levers. I checked to make sure not to pinch any wires but I guess a second check with a clearer head may be in order.

Flying - hope you're wrong but I've been thinking that also
 
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Old Mar 2, 2010 | 04:20 PM
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08's had a fuel filter/pump recall also.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2010 | 06:09 AM
  #8  
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If all above does not work then check for ground at the fuel pump. Had the same thing happen to me last year and turned out that the ground wire had fried at some point. I made a jumper cable fromthe negative pole on the battery to the fuel pump housing and voila it worked. It is an easy check to do also, keep us updated and good luck, thanks
 
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Old Mar 3, 2010 | 09:41 AM
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My '04 has a separate fuse block that includes a fuse for the fuel pump. It's located near the ECU and data link under the right side cover. I know HD relocated the CPU on '08 Touring models, but don't know if they moved the data link and the fuse block that has the fuel pump fuse as well.

A broken brake light switch alone won't prevent a bike from starting/running; it only results in the brake light remaining "on" when the lever isn't squeezed or the brake pedal depressed.

You have more wiring issues in the right hand switch housing than simply a broken brake light switch IMO.
 
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