1990 Ultra Classic Problem!!
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Road Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 848
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From:
Interesting!
Sounds like the problem got worse by fixing the bad terminals or you just didnt ride the bike long enough before the fix for this new problem to show.
Have you checked all of the grounds?
Have you checked and traced the powered wire for the radio?
Can the anti-dive switch be bypassed to see if that is a problem?
Check all the connectors for corrosion?
Maybe not much help here but sometimes the easy things can get over looked.
Sounds like the problem got worse by fixing the bad terminals or you just didnt ride the bike long enough before the fix for this new problem to show.
Have you checked all of the grounds?
Have you checked and traced the powered wire for the radio?
Can the anti-dive switch be bypassed to see if that is a problem?
Check all the connectors for corrosion?
Maybe not much help here but sometimes the easy things can get over looked.
I replaced all of the relays. Started the bike up and the radio works fine now. When the bike is at idle the voltmeter reads 10 volts with the lights on. I checked the battery with my meter and its at 12.5v at idle. I then turned on all the lights and the spot lights and checked for hot wires at the relays. The only wire that is hot is the 1st relay which has red on one side and 2 reds on the other. It wasn't hot enough to burn my finger but it was pretty darn warm. Is that normal? What would that indicate???
Club Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 802
Likes: 3
From: Wisconsin
If you have the set-up that should increase radio volume with engine rpm's I would start at that point and see if you can diconnect it. I have problems with that system on a 1998 Road Glide and some Buddies have had problms with theirs as well.
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Road Master
Joined: Aug 2007
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I worked on the bike some more today and noticed that the battery cables look like the originals from 1990. They have serial # 70033-89 on both of them. They physically look to be in great shape but I would think there is probably a ton of oxidation and corrosion under the jackets. I am thinking that the increased resistance from these cables could be causing the entire bike to have an undervoltage condition which would be the reason my voltmeter is flopping around and the red wire on one of the relays under the fairing is hot when the bike is running.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 10,675
Likes: 95
From: Billings,Mt.
I would think that if the copper is green/white looking,they may be shot.
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Road Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 848
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From:
I peeled back a few inches and the copper gets better looking the farther I peel. Where it connects to the terminals its green/white.
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Road Master
Joined: Aug 2007
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so, does anybody know what that POD 5 amp fuse if for that is under the side cover? I don't even see it in the schematic in my shop manual. For that matter, my shop manual schematic doesn't show my rear speaker wiring or the wiring color codes for my factory radio. Usually I would expect to see a color code legend for the radio so I could tell which wires are power, ground and speaker wires.
Supporter
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,245
Likes: 69
From: Northford, CT
If you want to check the battery cables do a volt drop test. Connect a volt meter to both ends of the cable turn the engine over with out it starting. Reading should be some where around .5 volt or lower. I think in the manual they give you a value and how to do it.
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Road Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 848
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Update so far.. I added an additional ground wire to my regulator. Its a fairly new cycletronic regulator. When the previous owner installed it he didn't use the external tooth lock washers inbetween the regulator and the mounting plate. I used new bolts, external tooth lock washers, internal tooth lockwashers and nylock nuts.
I am also in the process of removing all the bulbs and checking their condition and their socket conditions. So far, everything looks great except for the clutch side front blinker. It had a black grime on the bulb and socket. Almost looked like axle grease. Anway, I cleaned it all up. I am going to go through all the other lights and sockets tonight.
My new battery cables should be arriving in around 3-4 days. Although I would rather be riding.. working on the bike is fairly fun.
I am also in the process of removing all the bulbs and checking their condition and their socket conditions. So far, everything looks great except for the clutch side front blinker. It had a black grime on the bulb and socket. Almost looked like axle grease. Anway, I cleaned it all up. I am going to go through all the other lights and sockets tonight.
My new battery cables should be arriving in around 3-4 days. Although I would rather be riding.. working on the bike is fairly fun.
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Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 103
Likes: 5
From: Athens, GA
I had an '89 Ultra that had a few issues with voltage. The connectors had lost a bit of the "springiness" in the clips. As a result, most of the time I had good connections, but occasionally (probably from the vibration or jarring from the road surface while riding) the power or ground would momentarily drop out. Through trial and error, I replaced several connectors and eventually resolved the problems.
Also, the meter bounced around a lot at idle when I would turn on the turn signals or hit the brakes, and I think that's more or less normal for that year model.
About the brakes being on the same circuit, they are probably powered by the same circuit, but the anti-dive is only in the part of the circuit that leads to the front brake light switch, so the back brake doesn't energize it (at least that's how it was on my '89).
Good luck!
Also, the meter bounced around a lot at idle when I would turn on the turn signals or hit the brakes, and I think that's more or less normal for that year model.
About the brakes being on the same circuit, they are probably powered by the same circuit, but the anti-dive is only in the part of the circuit that leads to the front brake light switch, so the back brake doesn't energize it (at least that's how it was on my '89).
Good luck!
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Road Master
Joined: Aug 2007
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What a nightmare this is turning out to be.
I put new battery cables on, I replaced the 30amp main breaker along with all the other breakers, all my wiring is in tip top shape and still.. when I grab the front brake when the bike is idling the dash lights dim and I can hear a little pop in the radio speakers.
I checked the anti-dive solenoid and I can hear the faint click when I grab the front brake. I also cleaned and replaced all the grounds under the fairing on the main ground block. I am starting to think that this problem has something to do with the anti-dive solenoid. Can I ride the bike without it? Is there a way to disconnect the wires to it so that it doesn't activate?? What a drag.
I put new battery cables on, I replaced the 30amp main breaker along with all the other breakers, all my wiring is in tip top shape and still.. when I grab the front brake when the bike is idling the dash lights dim and I can hear a little pop in the radio speakers.
I checked the anti-dive solenoid and I can hear the faint click when I grab the front brake. I also cleaned and replaced all the grounds under the fairing on the main ground block. I am starting to think that this problem has something to do with the anti-dive solenoid. Can I ride the bike without it? Is there a way to disconnect the wires to it so that it doesn't activate?? What a drag.