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Old Mar 25, 2010 | 10:35 PM
  #21  
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My dad started to begin removing his dash this evening. He got it down to where the part of the dash with the speedo and stuff is still intact. He is able to remove the two bolts from the riser that are furthest to the front but the back two he can't get at because there is a clearance issue with the dash being in the way. Does the whole dash need to be removed? Did anyone find a way around having to remove everything in order to remove the riser?
 
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Old Mar 25, 2010 | 11:07 PM
  #22  
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Dammit! I just bought these for both our bikes because the Sweeper bars are a hinderance to tight slow speed maneuvers. And they're a bit wide for my girl. We originally got rid of the OE bars because of the wrist angle. The Sweepers were a compromise at best. I then go for the 575's and when I open the box, the bend (not height) looks to be the same as OE. Whatever, still gotta be better. They said nothing about needing longer clutch cables. Let alone potentially longer wires.

I'm planning an upcoming trip and already had plans for safety & prep type stuff and with very little free time available I decided to squeeze in two bar installs with one being internally wired. I'll do my wires later on when I do the radio, but I might as well do hers once and forget it. However, since I'm doing mine first to see if she likes the bend of the bars, mine has ABS.
Dawg, is screwing around with the brakes & ABS a must? Or did I miss something? I can usually switch our bars fairly quickly, but didn't want another added expense and additional time. Fingers are crossed, tell me I'm wrong!
 
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Old Mar 26, 2010 | 07:31 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by myfhfb06
My dad started to begin removing his dash this evening. He got it down to where the part of the dash with the speedo and stuff is still intact. He is able to remove the two bolts from the riser that are furthest to the front but the back two he can't get at because there is a clearance issue with the dash being in the way. Does the whole dash need to be removed? Did anyone find a way around having to remove everything in order to remove the riser?
You have to remove the stereo. Have fun with the two front bolts....They're fun to get at.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2010 | 07:51 AM
  #24  
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The radio is all that has to be removed. But, as stated earlier, the fasteners holding the radio in place are hard to get to. I ended up using a Gear Wrench Micro Drive set I bought at Sears for about $25. It was the only thing I had that could get at those screws.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2010 | 12:47 AM
  #25  
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thanks for the info. deciding what bars to use. ABS brakes.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2010 | 08:32 PM
  #26  
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I just want to thank everyone for your help and advice. My Dad and I installed his bars this past weekend and the little bit he has ridden it he really enjoys them.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 12:38 PM
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Any tricks to getting the Throttle-by-wire AND the right side wiring loom through the bars?? I'm stuck... But don't want to quit and run the wiring loom on the outside of the bars, 'a la OE'. Thanks!
 
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 01:21 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by mg_labelle
Any tricks to getting the Throttle-by-wire AND the right side wiring loom through the bars?? I'm stuck... But don't want to quit and run the wiring loom on the outside of the bars, 'a la OE'. Thanks!
We were able to get all of the wires to fit in the bars. It took a little finaglin but we got it without the piece that harley sells. A majority of the wiring should be ahead of that green connector in the bars. We used this plastic string type thing that he got from putting heated grips on my Mom's bike and taped it to the wiring to pull it through.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 02:02 PM
  #29  
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I switched the TBW sensor and had no problems getting the wires (including the heated grip wires) through the bars. I even left the sheathing on the control wires.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2011 | 09:11 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by '05Train
I switched the TBW sensor and had no problems getting the wires (including the heated grip wires) through the bars. I even left the sheathing on the control wires.
Just reading up on the install I did today. I did the same thing. Used a little elec. tape to hold the pins together to make it a bit easier pushing them thorugh.
Got it all buttoned up minus the brakes as the stainless braided brake lines I ordered wouldn't fasten together at the male/female connection between upper and lower. The threads were messed up from the factory so I made another trip to the dealer to return the bad lower. Now waiting on them to order it...will be in NEXT week.
All the above mentioned tips are good.
I had no issues with the radio. Used an allen wrench and my fingers.
As far as stock wiring w/o extensions, it all worked fine but I can't fasten the connectors where they used to fit. Had to do some rerouting but it all looks good so far.
If anyone else is trying this I say go for it. Have fun. Take your time. Of course I'm saying this before I get the brakes assembled and start the bleeding!
 
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