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Everybody says they are that much better, for 15 bucks why risk it. I changed mine out and so has about every person that I have read about on the forum.
The Torrington-Timkin B168 bearings have double the number of needles compared to the stock INA and are thus more robust. I have not heard of any problems with the current 1" INA bearings and my local dealer uses these in at least some of their mild builds, but I agree with Slick813 that at only $15/pr. why not just install the better option? The downside to this is that you'll need to buy or borrow a tool for the job, and one good one for a low price is offered by Gary Beatty here. You may need to register with Harley Tech Talk before you can read this thread. Ask about renting this tool, as he may be offering this option now. I just emailed Beatty and will report back when I hear from him.
I received an email from Gary Beatty and he said he's not renting tools. He did refer me to someone who does, however, and you can read about it here. These are Jim's tools and rental for current bikes is $37.50 with a $350 deposit. He also sells the Torrington B148 (early TC) and B168 (TC96, etc.) for $10/pair. Everything is plus actual shipping and CC charges.
Personally, I would just buy the Beatty tool for another $50 and you'll have it forever. It's a quality tool that's designed for that specific purpose, not a generic tool like you would rent/borrow at Auto Zone.
I made my bearing pusher instead of buying the 230 dollar harley one. I tried to find a blind hole puller 1" or 25 mm. didnt have any luck finding an individual one and ended up buying a kit of 6 pullers for 100 cdn. I took a piece of 3/8 plate steel and used the outer cover as the template. Used transfer punches to get the hole pattern for the 4 bolts that hole the plate on the motor. I then took a clear piece of clear plastic and followed the same proccedure with the plastic plate. I drilled the holes to hold them on the motor. you may wonder why the plastic, heres why, I dont have a cnc and wanted the dead center of the bearing for the jacking bolt. I held the plastic plate on the timing cover of the motor then put the cam box on top of it and put the 4 bolts though both and snugged them up. To find the center I noticed the removed cams are actually hollow which allowed me to insert a drill with the sharp end sticking out the end of the cam. I then inserted the cam into the cam box bearing hole with the drill sticking out and turned the cam in the hole drilling a small starter hole in the plastic plate. I did this for both cam holes. I then laid the plastic plate on top of my 3/8 metal plate and drilled the center of each hole with a center drill through the plastic into my metal plate. Drilled proper size hole for 5\8 fine thread and tapped it. I then made a pusher block that was the same o.d as the outer size of the bearing that also had a stem the i.d of the bearing so no bearing distortion would happen while it was being pushed. pushed bearing into housing to measurement listed in shop manual ,checking it ever few thousands once I was close. dont push it all the way to the back or you have inserted it too far. heres pic's of how I made pusher and bearing being pushed.
I had mine changed during my cam change, they are cheap and it will not cost that much more. Besides you will not be thinking about it later, peace of mind...............
Yes, the SE bearings that HD now sells are the Torringtons. If you use the zoom tool on the HD website you can actually see the word "Torrington" on the bearing
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