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Old May 7, 2010 | 06:02 AM
  #11  
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I say - do what makes you feel happy (and...search function works good too). Forum members who get stressed about a new oil thread should just ignore vs. submit some type of negative reply about 1,000,000 oil threads. We all had to start somewhere & this is why these sites exist (learn & advise).

Now, with that said - the 5-micron filter (as emwolb stated) is all you need...Cheers!
 
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Old May 8, 2010 | 12:16 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by nvsteve
Plenty of people are using the 15-50 Mobil 1 automotive. I've seen the oil reports and it is fine. Less than $25 for the 5 qt. jug at Walmart.
Automotive and motorcycle oils became different several years ago with the advent of Energy Conserving automotive oil.
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Mot...AQs.aspx#FAQs1
 
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Old May 8, 2010 | 01:40 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by emwolb
i was using royal purple until they went from 7.99 a quart to 12.99 a quart. so now i'm back to using syn-3.
I didn't buy my bike to save money. The bike wasn't cheap, parts aren't cheap, so why should the oil be any different? My Harley is my most prized possession and I won't skimp on things like oil or gas because they are the life blood of the beast and if that means I have to pay a little extra for the "good stuff" then so be it. JMO
 
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Old May 8, 2010 | 11:13 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by emwolb
the harley oil filters are rated at 5 microns. a micron is a millionth of a meter. i would prefer using a longer oil filter for the older evo dynaglides, but they're rated to where they'll allow larger particles to pass, at 10 microns. i was using royal purple until they went from 7.99 a quart to 12.99 a quart. so now i'm back to using syn-3. i only wish that mobil-1 automotive was known to be appropriate in specs to use in our harleys. that would solve an issue, as i'd start changing oil out of the 5 quart jugs for a lot cheaper. as far as amzoil goes, i don't like the idea of being in need of oil when i'm in a remote area and not have access to an authorized amzoil dealer.
Here ya go. Straight from Mobil 1

http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Mot...Davidsons.aspx
 
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Old May 8, 2010 | 11:23 AM
  #15  
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I used the black Harley filters didn't see the deal about having that chromed. I can hardly see them. Even with my cars I've just always used the manufacturers filter. AC/Delco on my GM automobiles and I always go to the Hyundai dealership and get "their" official Hyundai oil filter. Each to his own but just never felt right using Fram or an aftermarket oil filter. Same as others on type of oil...that's a can of worms.
 
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Old May 8, 2010 | 03:58 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by emwolb
...so now i'm back to using syn-3. i only wish that mobil-1 automotive was known to be appropriate in specs to use in our harleys.
Mobil 1 15w50 is available at Wal-Mart for $23/5-qt. jug and is very compatible with HD engines. I've seen three oil tests by reputable MC mags that have tested it and all gave it the thumbs-up for use in Harleys and other MC's.

In a real-world scenario, two friends did big-bore upgrades together on 2000 EG's, one having used M1 15w50 for 60k miles and the other Amsoil 20w50 for 50k miles. Upon visual and gauge inspection of the cylinders, rocker components, and pistons, neither engine showed any measurable wear. Visually, both still had the hone marks showing on the cylinders. The M1 costs ~$4.60/qt. and the Amsoil about double that amount.

Another good aspect of using M1 is that you can find it almost anywhere. BTW, do a Google search and you'll find RP 20w50 for $6.25-$7.95/qt., and you can buy it for even less by the 5-gal. pail. My last pail cost me $120 ($6/qt.), but I'm getting it through a distributor, so retail will be somewhat higher but less than the per-quart price. There is no functional reason to buy the MaxCycle 20w50 ($14.95/qt.) or any other MC-specific oil.
 

Last edited by iclick; May 8, 2010 at 04:11 PM.
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Old May 8, 2010 | 04:43 PM
  #17  
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I have seen firsthand what can happen to a flat tappet cam if you aren't using the right oil.it's probably a rarity for a cam to wipe out with the wrong oil but it can happen. I'm not positive but I think the lack of zinc in today's car engine oil is only ok for a roller cam engine, which is essentially what all modern gas car engines have.
 
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Old May 8, 2010 | 06:03 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by EdwardK
Good find! It's now bookmarked.
 
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Old May 8, 2010 | 06:16 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by RK4ME
Automotive and motorcycle oils became different several years ago with the advent of Energy Conserving automotive oil.
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Mot...AQs.aspx#FAQs1
I believe Mobil One hasn't been complete in their answer. Energy conserving additives aren't found in heavier grade oils, such as 15x50 or 20x50. Check the bottles from any company next time you are in WalMart. The energy conserving "Star" symbol is only on the 5 weight or lower oils, such as 5x30.

See attached picture. Look at the circle on the back of each bottle. Note only the 5w30 bottle, on the left, is stated "Energy Conserving." The front of that bottle has the star burst symbol. The 15w50 does not.
 
Attached Thumbnails When people ask about Oil ....-mobil-1.jpg  

Last edited by MNPGRider; May 8, 2010 at 06:58 PM. Reason: Add picture
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Old May 8, 2010 | 06:56 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by dog155
Can certainly understand the concern given what you read on the forums.A lot of people blow hot air about things they know nothing about.We all have our own preferences and for different reasons.My choice in lubes comes from years of experience in building engines and drivetrains,and knowing the value in my choices.Any motor vehicle will last a good long time no matter what the lube used as long as the maintainance is kept up.
40 yrs experience as a mechanic has taught me that engineers are paid good money to design these motors and they are not going to put a lubricant that is infereror in any way into it be it synthetic or not . Proper maintenance is key I am a firm believer in re placing the motor with the oil and filter that it was designed with at the proper intervals recommended will run for many more miles than you will probably own the vehicle, most people that you talk to dont really know anything about motor oil or how or what actually breaks it down it usually only hearsay or something they read on a forum somewhere and they run with it thinking that they know what there talking about. Bottom line is if you change your oil regularly dont waste your money on synthetics unless you are changing your oil at 10,000 plus intervals, but if it gives you piece of mind its your money not mine.
 
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