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My husband has a "09" Roadking..his has the same problem. He called the place where he bought the bike when he first got it. They said they have never had any complaints about this. He has done everything he could think to do to correct the problem. Glad to see someone else has noticed it to. Hopefully after he reads your suggestions he can finally fix the problem. He has not been a "Happy Camper" let me tell you! Thanks to all of you..
I wedge a large screwdriver under the right side (loose cam). Wedge it in between
the bottom of the cam and the floor, or lift table. This holds the cam up in place while you torque the axle nut down.
You could use a stick of wood custom cut to length too, all you need is something to hold the cam in place.
Like others said, make sure to set initial torque before adjusting the belt, if it's not torqued down initially,
it's too sloppy, and the cam will move on you.
Works for me.
It's a crappy setup if you ask me. I would prefer the old style adjusters.
I liked Ragtops method when I read it years ago, variation of the same concept. Anti seize between the nut and cam is a must. Often thought the frame side of the cam could knurled slightly to bite in and not slip while torquing.
I just updated my '96 frame with parts from an'08 RG, this cam thing had pissed me off trying to get that cam not to move.
The manual (well Haynes) reads to tighten up to 20-25 ftlbs or so before adjusting belt tension then torque, release one turn for Cush drive then retorque.
I'm going to revisit this tonight and try the wedging a piece of wood or something on the cam to help hold it and hit the 105 torque. I torqued to 100ftlbs.
Also make sure you are putting a small amount of anti-seize on the back side of the cone nut. This will keep it from trying to bite into the cam washer when you tighten it down.
This does help alot. Maybe you can use a second person to hold the welded side with the wrench.
Not your problem, but 95-105 Is not a range. 105 is what you tq to, I believe 95 is what to check at not. But again I dontb5hink that's the problem.
If you checked it was still in place after tq I have trouble seeing how it loosened up, sometimes takes couple tries to make sure doesntv move
As a mechanic by trade, you sir are incorrect. It is a torque range, if they wanted it torqued to one exact value it would state that. If they wanted it to be proof torqued, drag torqued or torque checked (not the same thing) to a specific value they would specify the exact proceedure they wanted completed.
I got frustrated with the adjusting cams last time I put on a new rear tire. I recently caught a rock between my belt and pulley, so the belt needs to be replaced. It's a good time to consider alternatives to the cam adjusters. After some research, I ran across the Positive Stop Axle Adjusters. Somewhat pricey. But, at this point it's good money spent; going to hang on to this bike for a while. PayPal makes it not sting as much.
I got frustrated with the adjusting cams last time I put on a new rear tire. I recently caught a rock between my belt and pulley, so the belt needs to be replaced. It's a good time to consider alternatives to the cam adjusters. After some research, I ran across the Positive Stop Axle Adjusters. Somewhat pricey. But, at this point it's good money spent; going to hang on to this bike for a while. PayPal makes it not sting as much.
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