Changing handlebars -- Molex connectors
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Tourer
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 343
Likes: 1
From: Phoenix, Arizona
Changing handlebars -- Molex connectors
Swapped handlebars on my 09 FLHT, ran the wires inside and then decided I didn't like the bars. Trying another set, but didn't want to spend hours with the Molex connectors. The first time around I tried a wire number drill that exactly fit the hole in the connector and the pins would not release. Tried a paperclip and it worked, but agonizingly slow. Since I was faced with removing the connectors again and had an extra left over from the bar swap, I took one apart to see exactly how they worked. Here's the scoop on Molex connectors and how to speed up removing and reinstalling them.
Here's a basic Molex connector.
Next, trying the old paperclip trick. Works, but not very well and is time consuming. Notice the relationship between the pins and the release holes.
The locking plate removed. The shiney things are the tips of the pins. Notice just adjacent to the square shank of each pin is a small plate with a half-moon notch in it. These have to be lifted to release the pins.
A quicky homemade tool. A piece of scrap aluminum or wooden dowel will work. Drill the dowel with a number drill that fits into the release holes and then turn the drill around and glue it in the dowel. What is hard to see is the the end of the drill is then ground to a sharp point.
The tool goes down into the connector and lifts the plate. It's a little fuzzy but you can see the tool has lifted the plate compared to the one next to it and the pin is released.
Here's how the tool will actually look in use. Stick it in the release hole and then angle it back so the tip goes into the little half-moon and a gentle push and the pin comes out.
Here's a basic Molex connector.
Next, trying the old paperclip trick. Works, but not very well and is time consuming. Notice the relationship between the pins and the release holes.
The locking plate removed. The shiney things are the tips of the pins. Notice just adjacent to the square shank of each pin is a small plate with a half-moon notch in it. These have to be lifted to release the pins.
A quicky homemade tool. A piece of scrap aluminum or wooden dowel will work. Drill the dowel with a number drill that fits into the release holes and then turn the drill around and glue it in the dowel. What is hard to see is the the end of the drill is then ground to a sharp point.
The tool goes down into the connector and lifts the plate. It's a little fuzzy but you can see the tool has lifted the plate compared to the one next to it and the pin is released.
Here's how the tool will actually look in use. Stick it in the release hole and then angle it back so the tip goes into the little half-moon and a gentle push and the pin comes out.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 11,471
Likes: 2,998
From: Charleston, SC
Well if you don't work at a dealership or have 16 bucks for the real tool....a sewing needle or converted drill bit will do. 
Nice job pettifogger.
lp
Nice job pettifogger.
lp
Last edited by lp; Jun 4, 2010 at 10:43 PM.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 2,005
Likes: 53
From: ID Ho
$16? Molex want $84.00 Namz wants $54.00, I make my own (pictured) for $25.00, 6061 T6 handle, works alot better than jambing a needle into your finger!
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 11,471
Likes: 2,998
From: Charleston, SC
http://www.amazon.com/Sunbeam-Molex-.../dp/B001KQDS6G
And you put the sharp end of the needle in the connector, not your finger.
lp
Last edited by lp; Jun 4, 2010 at 10:59 PM.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 4,758
Likes: 953
From: Out West
In the process of putting on new bars and bushings this weekend and did some searches on the molex connectors since they were giving me some worries.
Broke off a sewing needle and then got out the dremel and worked over one of those cheap little tools Dawg mentioned in another thread and finally got them out.
Most of them were in mighty damn hard, took a lot more force to get them out than I expected but they are all out and no damage.
Anyway, this post by Pettifogger helped me out so thought I would give it a bump in case it helps anyone else. I think there are a fair number doing bars this weekend from the posts so figure anything might help.
Thanks Pettifogger, good post
P.S. You guys doing those with paperclips are some bad asses, no way mine would have come out like that!
Broke off a sewing needle and then got out the dremel and worked over one of those cheap little tools Dawg mentioned in another thread and finally got them out.
Most of them were in mighty damn hard, took a lot more force to get them out than I expected but they are all out and no damage.
Anyway, this post by Pettifogger helped me out so thought I would give it a bump in case it helps anyone else. I think there are a fair number doing bars this weekend from the posts so figure anything might help.
Thanks Pettifogger, good post
P.S. You guys doing those with paperclips are some bad asses, no way mine would have come out like that!
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Road Captain
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 555
Likes: 75
From: California
man I went in headfirst about a month ago and would have loved to come across this post first. I was one of the guys that went the distance with a paper clip and my hands were raw from wiggling that thing back and fourth for what seemed like an eternity. Great info for the ones who want to save some money and change out their own bars with internal wiring to boot. I almost fell over when the dealer said it would be about $800 labor for the wires to be internally wired, so I said I guess I'm going to learn how to do it myself for that kind of cash. I was encouraged to attempt it myself after talking with a nice guy (forgot name) from Wild One Inc. he said "you can do it, it's not that hard, and I'm a phone call away if you get in a pinch.
It was a bitch, but it came out fine and everything worked the correctly when hooked back up. Throttle by wire was the hardest part because you have to run two sets of wires from different starting points in the right hand side and its not easy. I also had to learn how to extend the wires as my new bars called for a plus 2" in length. I should also note that I'm not the guy who normally does things like this and was scared ******** throughout the whole process, but glad I gave it a whirl. Give it a try guys and you will be happy you did...looks so much better when completed.
It was a bitch, but it came out fine and everything worked the correctly when hooked back up. Throttle by wire was the hardest part because you have to run two sets of wires from different starting points in the right hand side and its not easy. I also had to learn how to extend the wires as my new bars called for a plus 2" in length. I should also note that I'm not the guy who normally does things like this and was scared ******** throughout the whole process, but glad I gave it a whirl. Give it a try guys and you will be happy you did...looks so much better when completed.
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