Rear drive belt

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Jul 3, 2010 | 07:10 PM

#21

DPete

Seasoned HDF Member

Joined: Aug 2007

Posts: 39,863

Likes: 2,121

From: Central, Ca.

I just push with my thumb what I think is 10 lbs and watch the scale on the guard then give it the 1/4 twist test when done. Works for me

Jul 3, 2010 | 07:33 PM

#22

07RoadHawg

Road Warrior

Joined: Jun 2007

Posts: 1,788

Likes: 4

From: Here

Quote:

Originally Posted by malbanese45

My 2010 manual states ''measure deflection at several locations around the belt. Select the loosest measurement and compare with specifications.''
1/4-5/16 for FLHX,FLTRX
3/8-7/16 for other models
I've always been taught that a loose belt belt will fail faster than one slightly tight.JMHO.

While that might be true about the belt failing (I have no idea if it is or not) an over tight belt will stress the seals and bearings more. I'd rather replace a belt than have bearings and seals fail. Both are costly repairs, but I'd rather err on the side of a slightly looser belt. JMHO.

Jul 3, 2010 | 08:56 PM

#23

atrain68

Road Warrior

Joined: Mar 2007

Posts: 1,377

Likes: 8

From: Atlanta, GA

The first time I adjusted my drive belt, I tightened to specs. The belt whined once it warmed up. I readjusted letting the deflection decrease about 1/8 of an inch and the problem was solved.

If you use a black sharpie pen and mark the adjustment cam at the right setting it makes it much easier to adjust the belt later. This came in handy after a recent tire change.

Jul 3, 2010 | 10:19 PM

#24

SteveO

Road Master

Joined: Feb 2005

Posts: 1,109

Likes: 3

From: Chattanooga, TN

Changing the shock pressure will change the belt tension. Manual says how much air to put in the shocks before checking the belt at ambient temp, on the side stand with a Harley belt tension gauge in the center of the belt................after several beers!