Clunkless
Tell me about the effort/aggravation of changing the clutch cable. I think mine is stretched and I've heard it's a real hassle to change. My service manual makes no mention of the "how-to", so I'd be really looking forward to a "how I did mine." Are you willing? Thanks in advance.
On mine I did not have to remove any exhaust. I did have to loosen and rotate the heat shield out of the way. You may have to loosen and or remove your exhaust to get the bolts out. Other than that not much to it, remove the bolts and the cover. You will need a decent pair of internal snap ring pliers to remove the ramp. You have to remove it to rotate the cable connection to get it of the cable end. There are three steel ***** under the ramp that will fall out when you remove the ramp, don't lose them. No spring pressure on any thing to worry about. Loosen the center cable adjuster all the way to get the connection off the handle bar end. When you have it all back together adjust it at the center till you have just a touch of play at the handle. Also there is a small external snap ring on the handle pin that will need to be removed. You may want to have a new gasket on hand, I reused mine. I used a drag specialties cable, pulls a lot easier now. Hope this helps.
One of the oldest tricks in the book is to stuff a noisy auto rear end with bananas to quiet it down temporarily for sale. Bottom line - if you stick a thick lubricant in anything, it will make less noise (clunk???) for a while.
Went to Amsoil 20W50 in all 3, and it seems louder than ever.
I gave up on the noises, and figure make sure the fluids stay full, ride it till it makes real noise, then take it back to dealer and utilize that ext warranty.
I gave up on the noises, and figure make sure the fluids stay full, ride it till it makes real noise, then take it back to dealer and utilize that ext warranty.
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Notgrownup
Primary/Transmission/Driveline/Clutch
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Jul 5, 2009 05:28 PM
swipter
Touring Models
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Jun 29, 2007 07:42 PM



