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Rear brake line problem and fix

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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 11:42 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by hojones
If you're going to splice a metal brake line it needs to be double flared. You are asking for trouble doing anything less.
This is true, the compression fitting at the caliper is a double flaired type, you can buy double flared splices to repair lines, I think most of the trouble people have with compression fittings is they try to repair lines that have rusted out, if a line has rust holes in it chances are the entire line is comprimised with rust.
I think the braded ine is probably the best solution short of paying Harley that much for a $10.00 line including fittings.
Terry
 
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by FXSTS-88
+1!!!! Compression fittings are unsafe at brake pressures!!!!!
Might as well replace it with a S/S line as long as you have it off. Will be an easier replacement.
....+3. Some machinists should not be giving repair procedures, especially when it comes to something thats is life threatening. Im sure he thought he was helping but!!!!!!!!
 

Last edited by bagman1; Aug 6, 2010 at 11:52 AM.
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 03:08 PM
  #13  
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Just a question, does anyone know how much psi is actualy generated on a NON boosted, short throw system like on most Harley's?
Terry
 
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by TMair
Just a question, does anyone know how much psi is actualy generated on a NON boosted, short throw system like on most Harley's?
Terry
Everything I have read, (not alot admittedly) speaks of 1200 psi as a desired amount. You change m/c piston sizes and throws to achieve this depending on many factors.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by qtrracer
Everything I have read, (not alot admittedly) speaks of 1200 psi as a desired amount. You change m/c piston sizes and throws to achieve this depending on many factors.
Anybody know how that compares with psi on a car brake line? I've been doing some internet research, and it looks like compression fittings are discouraged for car repairs.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 05:06 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Uncle Scrooge
Anybody know how that compares with psi on a car brake line? I've been doing some internet research, and it looks like compression fittings are discouraged for car repairs.
The reason I had asked about PSI is because the fittings I had mentioned seeing on trucks where on pre booster systems, the figures I have read for boosted systems is up in the 3200 PSI numbers, that IS a lot of pressure, my guessing is that compression fittings became a problem when boosted systems became the norm, and I think a lot of those fixes where on rusted systems which is asking for trouble on any system.
Terry
 

Last edited by TMair; Aug 6, 2010 at 05:34 PM.
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 07:59 PM
  #17  
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The same thing happened to my 07 Road King, clutch cable was rubbing against tubing, wore a hole through very much like your picture. Dealer at first told me they could get the part in two weeks, came back two weeks later part had to be ordered from the US, minimum wait time 8 weeks, this was second week of August 09. Went to an indy and had him make up a cable using Goodrige braided stainless and swaged fittings with a Russel Tee fitting to join front and rear. Works great, no wait, costs more.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 08:38 PM
  #18  
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Go with a complete new line, the either stock or braided. Be sure to completely bleed with new fresh fluid. I installed the "speed bleeders" what an easy job to bleed the brakes and clutch on my SE3 Ultra and Goldwing.

A new can of brake fluid is only good for a year. Once opened it is only good for a week if sealed properly.

www.speedbleeder.com
 
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 09:02 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by SteveO

A new can of brake fluid is only good for a year. Once opened it is only good for a week if sealed properly.

www.speedbleeder.com
Ok I am lost here, they recomend changing your brake fluid every two years, so the fluid in your system barring contamination is good for two years, but a new can of fluid is only good for one year, and an opened can is only good for a week!?
Terry
 
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 09:27 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Uncle Scrooge

My dealer wanted $150 (!!!) for a replacement and didn't have one in stock. A quick trip to the machine shop at the local NAPA for advice. The guy told me to cut out the bad section and rejoin the pieces with a compression fitting for $3.25. The damaged area was small enough that I didn't need to splice in any additional tubing. He also said he could fix me up a 3000 psi rated braided line with the Harley stop light switch for around $35-$40.

I cut the bad part out and got things put back together this evening. So far no signs of leaking or any other problems.
It would have been OK if you had got the flare coupling (about $4.00 at AUTOZONE) and borrowed their flare tool and did a double flare. This type of fittings are all over cars and trucks and is perfectly acceptable and legal dot approved. I did this when I put a 3” forward control on my bike to keep the front part of my factory bent brake like stock. In this case I needed a splice and I got two 7” extensions meant to splice in the front when the line gets screwed up were it hooks to a GM front disk caliper. They were about $5.00 . Had the fittings for the flare coupling on the extensions. I used one line to practice on.
What you have is a disaster waiting to happen. Look up the compression fitting and you will find its only about 350 PSI. Power brakes are 3000PSI. Harley’s manual brakes are a lot less but way more then 350.
 

Last edited by Jackie Paper; Aug 6, 2010 at 09:29 PM.
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