2010 FLHX PC-V concern
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2010 FLHX PC-V concern
Hello,
Thanks in advance for any insight. I have a 2010 FLHX with D&D Fat Cat, Power Commander V, Stage 1 Air Cleaner. The other night I took off in First and I believe I hit the rev limiter but the bike completely died for about 3 seconds. I was around 20 MPH rolling with a dead bike. I twisted the throttle about 3 or 4 times and nothing. I clicked the on off button, the bike popped and took off like nothing happened? Had I needed power I would have been screwed, luckily I did not. I have had this set up for about a 1000 miles and it seems when I get close to the rev limiter the bike breaks up for a couple of seconds, not actually on the rev limiter but near it. Any thoughts?
Ryan
Thanks in advance for any insight. I have a 2010 FLHX with D&D Fat Cat, Power Commander V, Stage 1 Air Cleaner. The other night I took off in First and I believe I hit the rev limiter but the bike completely died for about 3 seconds. I was around 20 MPH rolling with a dead bike. I twisted the throttle about 3 or 4 times and nothing. I clicked the on off button, the bike popped and took off like nothing happened? Had I needed power I would have been screwed, luckily I did not. I have had this set up for about a 1000 miles and it seems when I get close to the rev limiter the bike breaks up for a couple of seconds, not actually on the rev limiter but near it. Any thoughts?
Ryan
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Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Green Bay, WI
2010
Doesn't sound like the rev limiter...Sounds like your PC may need some additional tuning. When the rev limiter kicks in it only knocks back your speed and RPMS it shouldn't kill the bike completely...Sounds like some additional fine tuning is needed......
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From: Indian Land, SC
I know it did on my V-Rod. Hit that rev-limiter and the bike would die, back off the juice and it's on again. Only did it once to see if it worked.
What you have experienced is the DBW redundancy system from the factory ECM. When shifting there are certain protocols which must be met: the throttle grip actuator needs to be rolled back between shifts an X amount of degrees for an X amount of time, and the clutch needs to be pulled in for an X amount of time. If the ECM does not see these parameters (or a combination of them) it can pull the throttle blade back as the system may determine the throttle grip actuator is sticking. I would check for any stored codes, and also pay especially close attention if you have replace the handlebars or grips to check the connections and the grip actuator operation.
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Jamie Long / Fuel Moto USA
The USA's Leader V-Twin EFI & Performance www.fuelmotousa.com
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Email jamie@fuelmotousa.com
Jamie Long / Fuel Moto USA
The USA's Leader V-Twin EFI & Performance www.fuelmotousa.com
Contact 920-423-3309
Email jamie@fuelmotousa.com
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Thanks for the replies. There is not an Auto Tune on it I had it dyno'd and mapped when I put on the pipes and the stage 1. Jamie is there any way to by pass what you mentioned because I am looking more of a safety factor than anything. The grips were put on before I took delivery of the bike so I am going to assume that is not the case because the first 3000 miles it ran flawless. I do ride hard at times so it makes sense about rolling off the throttle X amount of degrees but I did not do anything different than I have done in the past with a hard take off. I will stop into Harley and have them pop it on the computer to see if any codes pop. Thanks Again
Ryan
Ryan
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