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Primary Fluid Change Question

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Old Aug 16, 2010 | 10:02 AM
  #11  
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Cut a slot in it and then use a screwdriver. Needle nose vice grips may also work. Just watch the chrome.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2010 | 10:16 AM
  #12  
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I pour it back in thru the inspection cover, its higher than the derby cover. I place a towel over the right grip and lean the bike up against a brick wall to fill it. Not sure about your year, but I just dump the whole bottle of Formula+ in there, never an issue.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2010 | 10:35 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Max96
I pour it back in thru the inspection cover, its higher than the derby cover. I place a towel over the right grip and lean the bike up against a brick wall to fill it. Not sure about your year, but I just dump the whole bottle of Formula+ in there, never an issue.
The newer models do not have an inspection cover anymore. I believe they discontinued the inspection cover shortly after they went to an "auto-adjusting" primary chain adjuster.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2010 | 11:02 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Max96
I pour it back in thru the inspection cover, its higher than the derby cover. I place a towel over the right grip and lean the bike up against a brick wall to fill it. Not sure about your year, but I just dump the whole bottle of Formula+ in there, never an issue.
No good on the '07-up models. I wish we still had the inspection cover as it would be a lot easier than dicking with the derby cover every time.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2010 | 11:37 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Ronp42
Pour in 38 oz of oil. If you don't want to measure it. Just pour in enough to come up over the bottom edge of the clutch basket.
If you use the sight method the bike must be vertical when doing so--i.e., not on the kickstand. This detail is specified in my '07 owners manual but oddly is absent in the service manual (maintenance section). I would use the measurement method (38 oz.) since it is easier, especially if you don't have help holding the bike up while you inspect the level.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2010 | 11:51 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by jsciullo
Is the hole the same size as the derby cover? Also any special care with the gasket. The manual says to replace it.
Thanks,
Jim
Yes, the hole is roughly the same size as the cover large but pouring in the oil is not easy without a funnel. HD makes a plastic clip-in device (63797-10) that makes this job much easier, about $10. I bought it even though a narrow-neck funnel works okay, but if you have a clutch-basket bolt line up with the hole you'll need to bump the starter. With me it seemed to always line-up and I got tired of that ritual, so I bought the HD thingie, but haven't used it yet.

Someone mentioned o-rings, but my '07 uses a "seal ring," which looks like a large rubber band. I've found these to be very durable and have changed mine no more than twice in 37k miles, changing the oil every 5k. Be advised that if you don't clean the oil off the surfaces around the seal it will temporarily weep a bit afterward around the derby cover, but that will stop in short order unless the seal is damaged.
 

Last edited by iclick; Aug 16, 2010 at 11:54 AM.
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Old Aug 16, 2010 | 12:02 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by valvestem
The newer models do not have an inspection cover anymore. I believe they discontinued the inspection cover shortly after they went to an "auto-adjusting" primary chain adjuster.
Yes they do, it's different than on previous models but the round cover with 5 bolts at the back of the primary cover is still called the clutch inspection cover. That's what my 09 Touring Bikes service manual calls it.
By the way, it's a PITA to replace the primary oil. Couldn't find a small enough funnel to go into the hole at the bottom of the clutch basket so the one I used was a tad too big and some oil spilled over the primary cover.
You have to pour the oil very slowly to avoid spilling.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2010 | 02:18 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Spur56
Cut a slot in it and then use a screwdriver. Needle nose vice grips may also work. Just watch the chrome.

I learned this trick in the Army working on Aircraft. Put a little spit on the head of the torx hole or a stripped out phillips head. Push some gritty dirt in the head of the screw or bolt. Put the screw driver or torx bit and turn it. We used to use scrubbing powder but dirt works in a pinch. It takes up the space where the damage is and allows the tool to bite. It works more often then not. The trick is doing it before it goes totally bad.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2010 | 03:21 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by jsciullo
Crap - just boogered one of the trox screws. Damn it!! Theres always one. Any suggestions on how to get that sucker off?
Thanks,
Jim
Take a small chisel and start it at about 10 o'clock on outside of the screw head, then rap it lightly with a hammer downward. That forces the screw to turn CCW. That worked like a charm for me. I then went to Ace Hardware and bought five chrome Allen button-head screws, which have not given me any trouble.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2010 | 07:01 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by frenchbiker
Yes they do, it's different than on previous models but the round cover with 5 bolts at the back of the primary cover is still called the clutch inspection cover. That's what my 09 Touring Bikes service manual calls it.
By the way, it's a PITA to replace the primary oil. Couldn't find a small enough funnel to go into the hole at the bottom of the clutch basket so the one I used was a tad too big and some oil spilled over the primary cover.
You have to pour the oil very slowly to avoid spilling.
I'm glad I read this. I've never been inside and thought I would just dump the oil in. Is it obvious where the oil is supposed to go?

Jim
 
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