Monkey bars vs Wild1 bars help!
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Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
From: Pardeeville, Wi
Monkey bars vs Wild1 bars help!
I have a 2010 SG with ABS and I am looking to purchase new bars would like them even with top of fairing of just below. I was hoping not to changes cables since I do not what to mess with abs brake lines. I heard you could reroute lines if I went with the 10" WILD 1 bars but really like the 10" monkey bars. Anyone have experience with them. I want to do it myself and not have dealer do it!
Road Warrior
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,416
Likes: 27
From: Northern Part of the Great Lone Star State
I just got finished installing the 10" monkey bars on my S/G and like them alot as compared to the factory...However I did install new lines on my ABS simply because I wanted the braided cables this time around...So I'm really not much help there...However I understand that the factory cables will work with 10" bars after that you need to change out the cables...FWIW...I went 4" over but it I had to do it again I would opt for 4" over on the clutch and 2" over on the brake line...FFT
paul
paul
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,246
Likes: 19
From: Cypress, TX
I started to go with the 10" Monkey bars because of not needing to mess with wires or cables. I ended up going with 12" monkey bars and am really glad I did. The wiring is a pita but it is doable. You don't have to cut anything just reroute the plugs. I changed to a +8 clutch cable and a +6 brake line. I have ABS and if you are just running from the MC to the ABS module its not hard and you can do it without bleeding the brakes. The clutch cable is easy. Running the wires internally is the hardest part. Pulling wires past that bend sux. A couple of tips. Get some small, strong chain and don't shrinkwrap the wires tight. You want some flexibility in the wiring as you pull it through. Get rid of the green TBW plug. Oh yeah, get a service manual and a molex connector tool.
Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 144
Likes: 3
From: Massachusetts
12" bars
I just did the 12" monkey bars, I thought they went pretty easy, a small chain you can get at a hardware store is an easy way to snake the bars. I used a little soap as well im an electrician so i used cable pulling soap I got from work but dish soap works also. I didn't have to splice wires and I used the stock TBW just snaked it first then the control wires after. You will need to pull apart the amp connectors by pulling out the white insert with a small hook that will expose the male pins. Then just write the color codes on paper the connectors are numbered so its not bad. pull the pins out of the connector heat shrink the wires leaving a about 4 " of wire exposed with the pins on the ends. Then i put another piece of heat shrink over the exposed wire and pins leaving a 2" tail that you can flatten, this helps to connect to the pull wire. Push and pull the wires, and it should go pretty smooth.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 3,121
Likes: 489
From: sunny florida
I run the 12.5 Wild1 bagger apes, I am 5'10" and they are very comfortable, depending on your height I would run the bars that are the best height for you and if you have to rewire so be it, it's better to do it right the first time than compromise
Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,552
Likes: 1
I just did the 12" monkey bars, I thought they went pretty easy, a small chain you can get at a hardware store is an easy way to snake the bars. I used a little soap as well im an electrician so i used cable pulling soap I got from work but dish soap works also. I didn't have to splice wires and I used the stock TBW just snaked it first then the control wires after. You will need to pull apart the amp connectors by pulling out the white insert with a small hook that will expose the male pins. Then just write the color codes on paper the connectors are numbered so its not bad. pull the pins out of the connector heat shrink the wires leaving a about 4 " of wire exposed with the pins on the ends. Then i put another piece of heat shrink over the exposed wire and pins leaving a 2" tail that you can flatten, this helps to connect to the pull wire. Push and pull the wires, and it should go pretty smooth.
Road Warrior
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,286
Likes: 17
From: Omaha
If you wouldn't mind, can you give some more detail on how you installed the upper brake line without bleeding the brakes? I am about to tackle installing new 10" bars and new cables.
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,246
Likes: 19
From: Cypress, TX
Got this from another member. Worked great for me and also on a friend's bike. Run the line. Cover EVERYTHING. Put the end by ABS module in a baggy. Connect to MC. Begin to run fluid through. Work the lever. Run fluid until it flows freely. May take quit a bit. Top off hole in ABS. Connect. Flick lever to make sure no bubbles at MC. Button up. Brake is more solid than new and no codes.
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Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 144
Likes: 3
From: Massachusetts
all I changed were the clutch and brake cables, I did +8 on the clutch, 34" brake line from master and 17" to the calipers. I used all black braided so they were a little pricey. I also used 90' 10mm banjo fittings on the calipers and a 35' 10mm at the master.I used an 1/8" universal adapter where the 3 lines meet, with a 90' -3 to 1/8" npt fitting to the master and two 45' -3 to 1/8 npt fittings to each caliper.Hope this helps.