Well, said I would post after having it checked and here I am. Dealer had it for more than a week - notes say they checked everything, including taking the bike down to the bare elements to check all the wires and electrical things. Fairing off, bags off, seat off, tank off......

This included putting the bike on the dyno and "wiggle testing" all the connections to see if they could make it fail while it was running. At the end of it they replaced a relay (Part 31504-91B - Relay, SPDT, Moicro W/Diode Suppression).

They rode it for 30 km to see if it was Ok and gave it back to me - said if it happens again bring it back.

Total cost - $50 ESP deductible plus taxes.

Now we'll see if it happens again.

 

Thank for info but got a little lost in the threads. Still trying to figure what your bike was doing during the problem? Also was bestin1994's bike doing the same thing? Is this relay on the fuse box? Anyone know what SPDT stand for. I have the electrical diagnostic manual but I have not found that relay in my 04 book.

 

When I saw this thread about bank angle sensors I thought it was going to be another troll posting. I need to get down to the dealership one of these days and see what all the fuss is about. I hear they are even putting radios in them.

Anyway, in the electrical world "SPDT" stands for "Single Pole, Double Throw" and is in reference to a switch.

 

I had a BAS code on my bike awhile back. It didn't do anything but throw a code. The bike ran normal, just had the key lit up and the code would not clear. Turns out it was a bad tssm that I bought to install my security. I replaced the tssm and never had the code again

 

Thanks, thinking systems, could not see the tree for the forest. Since it has a diode must just mean the DC current can only go one way

 

SPDT = single pole double throw

 

Sorry, the problem was on P1, my update was P2. I think bestin1994's bike was having the same problem as he said it was the same, but at the end I really don't know.

My problem was that very infrequently and without any warning (meaning unpredictaby and not very comfortable when passing trucks at highway speeds) the enging would just DIE. No hesitation, no bucking, just dead. Guages dropped to zero, engine was dead, but still had electrics (turn signals, 4 ways etc) - and it would not restart until I got coasted over to the side of the road, cycled the ignition switch off for a few seconds, back on, and then it would magically restart. And after it restarted it would go for a long time without having any further problems - until unpredictably it would die again.

To put the problem in perspective, it happened to me 5 times in about 32,000 km (about 19,000 miles) over a period of 18 months. Checked under warranty twice, no fault found, no codes - "sorry can't fix it if we can't make it do it again". The last time I took it in I was pretty clear that it was unsafe, that my estate would take a dim view of it in terms of legal action if the truck didn't slow down for me next time, and that I wanted it checked further. Got some resistance and BS about ESP only covering the "relays and switches, not the wiring". Pushed a bit harder. At the end I think they had about 15 hours of investigation into it.

If you look at my prior post on P1 you will see links to two other threads in this forum on the same issue - so it is not a unique problem, but it does seem to be hard to track down.

Bright news is that it has been 4 days now, no problems. However last time it was 2 months and 12,000 km between problems. Will have to wait and see - and keep my life insurance paid up.

 

My engine would cut out and die at the weirdest times with the same problem as you have discribed. I thought it may be the BAS and was off chasing ghost. It ended up being the 50 amp thermal fuse that is located under the seat in front of the battery box. Replaced it 3 years ago with one from the local auto parts and everything is good to go.
PH

 

Had an e-mail question about the above statement. Probably should add by one way, I meant if someone were to hook battery up wrong, jump start or use a battery charger incorrectly it probably would not damage the bike. However I would not check it out to see.

 

Well I hoped that was it - NOPE!!!

Just got my bike back from the oil pressure problem (another warranty issue, see another post), rode it home from the dealer, then back into work this morning - F%$#@ - just steady speed in 3rd and - nothing - guages back to zip, still had electrical power, bike wouldn't restart. Over to the side of the road, turn off ignition, let it sit for a minute, turn it back on and the bike starts. Finished riding it in to work, the left it at the dealers again. They say no codes showing, they will look at it again tomorrow. Bike is spending more time in the shop for ESP repairs than me sitting in the saddle!!! Not cool. Will see what they come up with this time.