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You're about right on the Stage II ending up around $1,500 with labor.....and it would be a nice upgrade.
You can do the head work later.
Don't forget you will want a dyno done sometime. That will run around $400.
You are lucky to already have the SERT, A/C and exhaust upgrade. That's about $1,500 by itself.
You are lucky to already have the SERT, A/C and exhaust upgrade. That's about $1,500 by itself.
Don't i know it...that was a BIG shock when i bought this new bike...being a Softail guy previously (my last one being a 98 Fatboy)....the old "yeah i'm gonna put some pipes on it"...sure isn't what it used to be....the whole EFI thing has made that operation into quite a snowball.....
not that i'm complaining about EFI though.. i sure don't miss messing around with a choke....
I answered this thread about three times last night, and threw out the responses before I posted. 1500 is a short budget, and it's going to take some creativity to stretch it as far as you can.
If you are concerned at all about the waranty, get the Stage II kit and be done with it. It will be a nice upgrade from your 96 stage I motor.
If you don't care about the waranty, and can handle the labor to R&R the parts, you can probably get a bit more performance by having the heads ported and swapping in some performance cams. If it were me, I think I'd bump the compression by milling the heads and have the ports blended and polished. CC your heads at 80cc, use a .030 head gasket, and Tman 525 cams. You'll wind up with a corrected compression of about 9.2 and CCP around 190, which is exactly where I like a street motor to be. With a good dyno tune and good slip ons, you'll get pretty darn close to 100 hp and torque a little higher. It might take a bit more than your 1500 budget to accomplish all this, but with a little creativity and your labor, you should be able to get pretty close.
There's lots of ways to approach this. This is just one thought, and I'm certainly not an expert, just a weekend warrior and long time hot rodder. I'm also interested in how other guys would approach this question.
Go to harley tech talk forum harleytechtalk.org very informative and lots of "real builders" there. Great dyno form. Seen many 96 motors with SE 204 cams and tuner pulling good number. 103 with minor head work over 100 tq. Your will need head work to go over 100 hp.
Just remember you got a bagger and need torque down low don't go wild and end up with a poser's dyno queen.
I answered this thread about three times last night, and threw out the responses before I posted. 1500 is a short budget, and it's going to take some creativity to stretch it as far as you can.
If you are concerned at all about the waranty, get the Stage II kit and be done with it. It will be a nice upgrade from your 96 stage I motor.
If you don't care about the waranty, and can handle the labor to R&R the parts, you can probably get a bit more performance by having the heads ported and swapping in some performance cams. If it were me, I think I'd bump the compression by milling the heads and have the ports blended and polished. CC your heads at 80cc, use a .030 head gasket, and Tman 525 cams. You'll wind up with a corrected compression of about 9.2 and CCP around 190, which is exactly where I like a street motor to be. With a good dyno tune and good slip ons, you'll get pretty darn close to 100 hp and torque a little higher. It might take a bit more than your 1500 budget to accomplish all this, but with a little creativity and your labor, you should be able to get pretty close.
There's lots of ways to approach this. This is just one thought, and I'm certainly not an expert, just a weekend warrior and long time hot rodder. I'm also interested in how other guys would approach this question.
I see your build components listed, noting the true duals. You've responded to my posts before, always with good input...thanks. Couple questions: 1) I've got BUB 7 slip-ons on an otherwise stock 96" with Stage One tune and A/C. I'm thinking BUBs true dual headers in 1.75" to go with BUB 7s. What do you think of this set up for now until I go 103" (and after) in terms of torque? You're not unhappy with your setup from a torque standpoint, it doesn't sound like. BUB doesn't make a 1.75" crossover header like Jackpot, and I'd like to stick with BUB...TDs do sound awesome! 2) Corrected compression around 9.2 and CCP around 190. 9.2 compression sounds kinda low (I guess I might be referring to static compression?) All I know is I read when people have SE255 cams and too high compression, they got problems, Baby. Can you elaborate on the technicals some more about the relationship between corrected compression and CCP?
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