99 RoadKing Backfire
Tourer
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 272
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta, GA
Do you have the Magneti Marelli fuel system?
Do you have aftermarket exhaust installed?
Do you have aftermarket air intake installed?
If so did you have the bike remapped to adjust for the changes?
Why did you decide to install new injectors and fuel lines? Was this a first response to the problem?
How many miles on the RK?
Did the problem start intermittently or all at once?
Do you have aftermarket exhaust installed?
Do you have aftermarket air intake installed?
If so did you have the bike remapped to adjust for the changes?
Why did you decide to install new injectors and fuel lines? Was this a first response to the problem?
How many miles on the RK?
Did the problem start intermittently or all at once?
Stage IV
Joined: May 2021
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Michigan
when you changed over to the carb did ya have to put a fuel pressure regulator on it also
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HDF Community Team
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 1,434
Likes: 798
From: Colorado
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As for the back fire on de-cel with MM, unless tune is way out of wack, bank that your intake manifold seals need to be replaced at the heads from them old/shrunk/leaking air.
As for crank and cam position sensors, could just be time to replace them from age alone,
but pull the timing plate cover to make sure that the cam sensor is not melting to start with.
On the crank position sensor, double check it's bolts up front are still tight, and cable is not frayed to hell by not pulling it during oil filter changes to remove/replace the filter.
Next, pull the right hand side side cover to check to make sure that the crank position senor is still locked in place.
From here, The crank position sensor connector back at the ecm tail connector has an Internal O ring that helps the cam lock stayed locked, but O ring can fall apart to allow the cam lock connector to turn to cause it to become unplugged. So the trick, slightly thicker O ring so the rotating lock is tighter to being with as it rotate locked into place, then I take a thin type zip tie to the flat just behind the back of the rotating lock ring, to make sure that it will take major force to rotate it to unlock the connector in the end.
Stage IV
Joined: May 2021
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Michigan
Fuel pump gets pulled, and you go back to the vacuum petcock feeding the carb/vacuum controlled ignition shut off module when you shut the bike down.
__________________________________________________ _________________________________
As for the back fire on de-cel with MM, unless tune is way out of wack, bank that your intake manifold seals need to be replaced at the heads from them old/shrunk/leaking air.
As for crank and cam position sensors, could just be time to replace them from age alone,
but pull the timing plate cover to make sure that the cam sensor is not melting to start with.
On the crank position sensor, double check it's bolts up front are still tight, and cable is not frayed to hell by not pulling it during oil filter changes to remove/replace the filter.
Next, pull the right hand side side cover to check to make sure that the crank position senor is still locked in place.
From here, The crank position sensor connector back at the ecm tail connector has an Internal O ring that helps the cam lock stayed locked, but O ring can fall apart to allow the cam lock connector to turn to cause it to become unplugged. So the trick, slightly thicker O ring so the rotating lock is tighter to being with as it rotate locked into place, then I take a thin type zip tie to the flat just behind the back of the rotating lock ring, to make sure that it will take major force to rotate it to unlock the connector in the end.
__________________________________________________ _________________________________
As for the back fire on de-cel with MM, unless tune is way out of wack, bank that your intake manifold seals need to be replaced at the heads from them old/shrunk/leaking air.
As for crank and cam position sensors, could just be time to replace them from age alone,
but pull the timing plate cover to make sure that the cam sensor is not melting to start with.
On the crank position sensor, double check it's bolts up front are still tight, and cable is not frayed to hell by not pulling it during oil filter changes to remove/replace the filter.
Next, pull the right hand side side cover to check to make sure that the crank position senor is still locked in place.
From here, The crank position sensor connector back at the ecm tail connector has an Internal O ring that helps the cam lock stayed locked, but O ring can fall apart to allow the cam lock connector to turn to cause it to become unplugged. So the trick, slightly thicker O ring so the rotating lock is tighter to being with as it rotate locked into place, then I take a thin type zip tie to the flat just behind the back of the rotating lock ring, to make sure that it will take major force to rotate it to unlock the connector in the end.
I just was looking at the intake gaskets and I believe that's why mine is backfiring on decel both at the head side are all cracked up looks like they have never been changed so i just ordered a set along with a new set of jets and a tuner so should be able to take care of the problem with that. I have a S&S super E I could put on it ill just have to buy the peacock if I go that route I believe I have everything else I had bought it for my street glide and never had the chance to put it on before someone decided they wanted it more then me. Thank you for the information.
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