dumb question
Account Retired
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 3,245
Likes: 12
From: Here
Loc-tite and Anti-seize are two of a Motorcycle Mechanics best friends. Things you don't want to come loose, but still want to be able to remove, use Loc-Tite. The stuff you remove often or don't want corrosion from dissimular metals use Anti-Seize. You don't need much of either one. I guarantee you the poster above that burned his leg with hot dripping Anti-seize used too much. I use anti-seize on my new spark plugs when I install them. I also use it on my Derby cover screws. Never had a problem
Road Captain
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 523
Likes: 4
From: New York
Care to elaborate? I build hotrods and classic cars and do all of my own motor work and always use anti-seize on my plugs. It is recommended for just that. Especially with motors with aluminum heads. I use it anytime I am installing a steel fastener into an aluminum part to ward off destruction of the aluminum threads when trying to remove a steel bolt later on that may have bonded together through galvanic action caused by the contact of the two dissimilar metals. I also use it on my spark plugs installed into my Small block Chevy motors steel heads along with a dab of die-electric grease in the spark plug boots for ease of removal.. Never had a plug come loose because of it..never.
Road Master
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 836
Likes: 1
From: Rocky Hill, CT.
Anti seize lubricant is generally used where there are two different types of metal such as steel bolts into aluminum. It was originally designed to prevent seizure and galling.
Also to prevent rust seizure.
It is however not very nice to get on your hands or clothes.
Loctite performs in various strengths and acts the opposite so screws and bolts will not loosen easily or vibrate out.
Also to prevent rust seizure.
It is however not very nice to get on your hands or clothes.
Loctite performs in various strengths and acts the opposite so screws and bolts will not loosen easily or vibrate out.
Care to elaborate? I build hotrods and classic cars and do all of my own motor work and always use anti-seize on my plugs. It is recommended for just that. Especially with motors with aluminum heads. I use it anytime I am installing a steel fastener into an aluminum part to ward off destruction of the aluminum threads when trying to remove a steel bolt later on that may have bonded together through galvanic action caused by the contact of the two dissimilar metals. I also use it on my spark plugs installed into my Small block Chevy motors steel heads along with a dab of die-electric grease in the spark plug boots for ease of removal.. Never had a plug come loose because of it..never.
Seemed like a good application at the time.
Used on 2 of my vehicles, (truck, van) and more than once found some of the plugs loose. (normal street vehicles)
Used it on an old Sporty I had and the plug spit out hitting my leg.(No burn from the anit-sieze, no molten lava) Never used more than a "dab" on any of them.
I won't use on sparkplugs again...
Still use it on other ****.
Road Warrior
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,832
Likes: 37
From: Rockland County, NY
The explanations above for using anti-sieze are right on. Typically these connections are where different metals are in contact and galvanic action would cause corrosion and siezing of the parts. Spark plugs, O2 sensors and exhaust bolts are good examples and heat in these areas only makes it worse.
Loctite, in its many strengths, seals and bonds threaded connections to avoid loosening due to vibration and stress. It exists in different strengths because it is intended to be removeable when necessary. Bond strength is chosen based on many factors including the amount of stress and the critical nature of the connection. Some high strength applications require a torch to remove while the lesser may require only a bit of extra force.
Loctite, in its many strengths, seals and bonds threaded connections to avoid loosening due to vibration and stress. It exists in different strengths because it is intended to be removeable when necessary. Bond strength is chosen based on many factors including the amount of stress and the critical nature of the connection. Some high strength applications require a torch to remove while the lesser may require only a bit of extra force.
Unofficial HDF Chaplain
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 21,136
Likes: 18,049
From: san diego
Seemed like a good application at the time.
Used on 2 of my vehicles, (truck, van) and more than once found some of the plugs loose. (normal street vehicles)
Used it on an old Sporty I had and the plug spit out hitting my leg.(No burn from the anit-sieze, no molten lava) Never used more than a "dab" on any of them.
I won't use on sparkplugs again...
Still use it on other ****.
Used on 2 of my vehicles, (truck, van) and more than once found some of the plugs loose. (normal street vehicles)
Used it on an old Sporty I had and the plug spit out hitting my leg.(No burn from the anit-sieze, no molten lava) Never used more than a "dab" on any of them.
I won't use on sparkplugs again...
Still use it on other ****.
Account Retired
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 3,245
Likes: 12
From: Here
Seemed like a good application at the time.
Used on 2 of my vehicles, (truck, van) and more than once found some of the plugs loose. (normal street vehicles)
Used it on an old Sporty I had and the plug spit out hitting my leg.(No burn from the anit-sieze, no molten lava) Never used more than a "dab" on any of them.
I won't use on sparkplugs again...
Still use it on other ****.
Used on 2 of my vehicles, (truck, van) and more than once found some of the plugs loose. (normal street vehicles)
Used it on an old Sporty I had and the plug spit out hitting my leg.(No burn from the anit-sieze, no molten lava) Never used more than a "dab" on any of them.
I won't use on sparkplugs again...
Still use it on other ****.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,296
Likes: 3
From: Cheltenham, UK
In the UK there is a popular brand called Copaslip or MolySlip, probably available in the US as well, although I use this in the generic sense i.e. Anti-Seize is Copaslip to me.
Anyway, the point I do want to make is this - I NEVER use Copaslip anywhere near hydraulic systems, it is a complete no no. For this reason, I would never go near the brake system (ESPECIALLY ABS) with it. Apart from a seal compatibility issue there are copper particles in suspension that play havoc with the tight tolerance moving parts in hydraulic systems.
I know there are many that advocate Copaslip on the back of brake pads to stop them squealing - I think that does a lot more harm than good, although it may take some time for you to find out
Anyway, the point I do want to make is this - I NEVER use Copaslip anywhere near hydraulic systems, it is a complete no no. For this reason, I would never go near the brake system (ESPECIALLY ABS) with it. Apart from a seal compatibility issue there are copper particles in suspension that play havoc with the tight tolerance moving parts in hydraulic systems.
I know there are many that advocate Copaslip on the back of brake pads to stop them squealing - I think that does a lot more harm than good, although it may take some time for you to find out
