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Think I screwed up my Primary oil change

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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 02:06 AM
  #41  
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I collect the left overs from work. What ever Lucas Hub oil is left over from a project or whatever Oil in general. I just let it all drain into one container and I take that home. I use the hub oil in my trans and the other oil my truck. Its cheaper that way. I have yet to use the left over motor oil in the bike only because I dont know enough about the difference between the v-twin mobil 1 and the regular stuff. The day someone convinces me its safe to use the regular stuff Im going with the freebie oil
 
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 03:34 AM
  #42  
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you'll be just fine with the oil in your primary. i know that the last time i changed my primary i used B&M trickshift auto trans fluid, and i like the way it works. i was using royal purple in all three holes, 75-140 in the trans and 20-50 motor and primary. then royal purple decided that their oil was worth 12.99 per quart rather than the 7.99, so i found an acceptable alternative. i really like the redline shockproof heavy in the trans also. the trickshift and shockproof heavy make it shift wonderfully. it's a good combo, but back to your original question, you'll be just fine using the oil you did in your primary. alzheimers ain't that bad, it allows me to drift way off topic.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 04:51 AM
  #43  
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This is from the Mobil 1 website. I use the 75W-90W Mobil 1 gear oil in my 2010 Ultra's transmission. Any reason not to?




Question:
Does Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lube Corrode Yellow Metals?
Is Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lube LS 75W-90 gear oil OK to run in Harley Transmissions? The big buzz on the internet chat rooms is that it corrodes "yellow" metals, such as brass and copper. Is this true? Please answer THIS question.

Answer:
Unless the transmission specifically recommends an API GL-5 fluid for your transmission, it should not be used. GL-5 gear oils are designed for gears that require a high level of EP (Extreme Pressure) additives to protect gear teeth under extreme stress. Unfortunately, these same additives can be very aggressive toward “yellow metals “and are generally not recommended where copper, brass and bronze components are used.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 05:51 AM
  #44  
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Reading this thread I see no one makes mention of the mainshaft bearing on the inner primary. I have read some threads where some have experienced bearing failure. To say all your oil lubricates is the primary chain and clutches seems to miss the mark. Good lubrication of the mainshaft bearing would increase the life of the bearing. There is also an oil passage hole that needs to be kept clear to maintain oil to this bearing, clog that hole up with crud and you will lose this bearing. Remember this bearing takes the load from the clutch hub to the tranny by way of the mainshaft and good lubrication should be maintained. JMO
 
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 06:06 AM
  #45  
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Default Primary Lube

Wouldn;t it be best to use Non-Detergent Motor Oil instead of just 10W-40, wouldn;t you think the detergents would be hard on the clutch? Just my two cents.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 06:23 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Raiderse
Wouldn;t it be best to use Non-Detergent Motor Oil instead of just 10W-40, wouldn;t you think the detergents would be hard on the clutch? Just my two cents.
Not sure what is so wrong about using oil that is specifically designed and labeled for the primary.

Why do so many fight so hard against that?

Y'all weren't so cheap when you chose which motorcycle to buy.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 07:04 AM
  #47  
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WOW I guess I'm one of those who like to throw money away I worked at a gass station in the 70's and saw what cheep oil looked like inside an engine, lift the valve cover on a engine with Quaker state in the 70's and you had a hand full of sludge... I use the synthetic oil and change oil no more than 2000mi sometimes sooner my cages never see more than 2000mi on a change either.. I never have had a lubrication problem or vehicle that used oil.... I will pay the xtra money you will NEVER convince me that this is the place to save money but thats just me hell I burn money in the wood stove to LOL
 
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 07:14 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Faast Ed
Not sure what is so wrong about using oil that is specifically designed and labeled for the primary.

Why do so many fight so hard against that?
Some of us dont want to spend $8-$12 a qt. when something half the price works just as well.

I have been using Valvoline 20W50 MC oil.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 07:40 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by 1flhtk4me
Some of us dont want to spend $8-$12 a qt. when something half the price works just as well.

I have been using Valvoline 20W50 MC oil.
Funny, you weren't thinking that way when you forked out the cash for the big Harley. A cheaper bike would have worked "just as well". LOL

I have been using Valvoline 20W50 MC oil.[/
In your primary? Pretty sure that's what this thread was about.

I've tried all kinds of experiments in my primary over the years until I found one that shifted the smoothest and still gives me great "bite" with the clutch. Redline MTL (same formula as Redline primary fluid).

I will never switch again.

It's not like I change fluid every week, so the few bucks I would have saved would surely not warrant the lesser performance.
Besides, I ride hard sometimes. I want the best.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 08:43 AM
  #50  
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Hey, I just saw Valvoline is making oil for Harleys now. Saw it at Advanced Auto for about $4 a quart. Says it is suited for a wet clutch too. I'm switching to it. Done w/ the synthetic in the primary and crank. That's just getting too expensive. Think I'm switching to the black oil filters too, less than half the price. There's enough chrome on my bike.
 
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