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I have a few tips...........pick up two pn#12600003 screws at the dealer and replace your two front handlebar clamp bolts per the M1289 bulletin. And don't start the swap until you have the manual. And read the manual closely in regards to ignition switch removal and reinstall and/or watch the video link on here and read tips on here about reinstalling ignition switch because inevitably you will get it out of alignment. Cover the tank and fender when removing/installing the bars.
Did you get the prewired set with controls? A friend of mine got that setup and installation was easy. Once you remove the ignition switch and pull the cover below it just put it back together. The toughest part was priming the brake line. Have someone add fluid as you apply a vacuum to the end of the line at the ABS module. Once the fluid flows freely with no bubbles add a little fluid to the hole in the abs module and attach. Flick the lever a bit to remove any remaining bubbles from the line. Process worked great on his bike and mine.
All I know is I had the 12" Yafee Bagger Bars installed and the original wires and brake cable all reached (with ABS brakes, security system & cruise control) but had to get 8" over on the clutch cable which was measured after tear down so it was the exact length needed with no overage. Wires have to be disconnected and reconnected to get through the bars. It looks and rides perfect. I never believed APE people who told me about the improved ride but OMG what a pleasure to ride and handling is awsome. I love them. BTW stock SG mirrors still see fine with no adjustments needed now you see under your arms insted of over shoulder. 2009 SG.
Last edited by ScrapDog55; Dec 1, 2010 at 06:00 PM.
Its not too bad but it is a little time consuming to do it right. Ive done six sets so far. Hint: Dont let anyone know you can do this job unless you evryone asking you for "help" with theirs :-)
Cover fender and tank (obvious but necessary)
disconect battery
Remove outer fairing
Remove spot lamp bar
Remove ignition (watch the order for spacers and stack em somewhere in correct order)
Remove inner fairing cap
rotate the inner fairng forward to expose the handlbar clamp bolts
remove all stock cables (clutch, brake, throtle and idle cables)
unplug factory wiring harnesses for handlebar controls
remove the four handlebar clamp bolts (careful not to let your bars drop on the tank as you loosen the bolts)
remove stock bars
draw a diagram of where the stock wires go in the harnesses and take a picture of them BEFORE taking the wires out of the harnesses
next take the wires out of the factory harnesses (the shop manual will help explain this somewhat) a wire pull tool will make it easier but a paperclip works
remove controls from stock bars
remove air cleaner assembly
depending on your exhaust you may have to remove it to get the side tranny cover off to change out the clutch cable (drain the tranny first)
install and route the new clutch cable
remove tank bolts and raise tank a few inches to feed the new throttle idle cables through and attach to the throttle body
route new throttle and idle cables back through the inner fairing
install new brake line and route through inner fairing
using wire extension kit you got from hill country, match the colors up and plug in the extensions heat shrinking each connection. Once all are done use the larger heat shrink to go over all the connections
NOW the fun part, hopefully your new bars have the thin copper wire ran through them already (if not run a thin wire through them. Pour some cooking oil (or similiar) through the bars and after firmly ataching the thin copper wire to your new longer wires CAREFULLY pull them through the bars (this part is not fun and takes patience so you dont strip any coating off the wires)
After the wires are through reinstall the wires into the factory harnesses being very careful to put the wires back in in exactly the correct order.
Shave 3/32 off the back of the handlbar clamps (unless you got the new solid one piece clamp in your kit) this will allow you to tighten the clamps down enough that the bars will not loosen up on you and move while riding!
Put tranny cover, exhaust, air cleaner cover and tank back on
install new bars and tighten bolts enough to securly hold the bars in place. While sitting on bike position the bars where you want them and tighten the bolts down securly using loctite.
plug hand control wires back into the bike
attach all cables to bar controls
roll inner fairing back into place
install inner fairing cap and igniton
reinstall spot lamp bar and outer fairing
install handlebar controls and tighten them
adjust new throttle, idle and clutch cables
put in new brake fluid (careful to not drip it on any paint) and bleed the front brakes
IF you wired everything back right all should work
Some people pin their bars as well so they cant move. This isnt too hard but is different list of directions.
If this sounds like too much and your close to Indianapolis message me i will help you. After six sets I have this down to an art now :-)
Good luck, you'll love em once you get em installed.
I know I am lucky to have this guy but square biz that's all he charged for labor. Best HD mech you'll ever know. If anyone lives in the Rhode Island area and wants his name let me know. Been doing my work for 15 years now.
$200 to install Monkey bars on a bagger is a crazy good deal. If you live close to Scrapdog find his guy. The prewired HCC set is pretty easy. I think thats what the OP has. Just bolt on and plug in and connect the cables and get fluid in the brake line and air out.
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