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Chrome Fork Install

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Old Feb 5, 2011 | 12:40 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by METALKAT
I got a follow up question on this for an 09RG.
My manual says to torque the pinch bolts before the cap bolts on my forks. This seems backwards to me, shouldn't the caps be tightened first to draw the forks up before tightening the pinch bolts?
Thanks

I tightened my top bolts first to suck them up through the cans and frame.
Then pinch bolts. I will check my manual and see what it says.



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Old Feb 5, 2011 | 12:41 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Lowcountry Joe
I might have considered replacing the Harley springs with the Progressive fork spring kit while everything was apart. No personal experience with them yet, but I hear that they make quite a difference.
Regardless of the spring kit, the chrome lowers are definitely the way to go. Stock lowers get stained to easily because they have no effective protective coating. I bought a 2000 RKC a few years ago and the lowers looked like chit with only 13K on the odo.

Congrats on doing the job yourself and finding a pro to install the guts. Remember that the fork oil level in each leg is very important...it needs to be at the correct level...or handing issues may occur.

Regarding your lack of "lever", there could be various causes. Certainly, pad thickness can be one. The piston assembly in the front master cylinder reservoir could be a contributor, as can low fluid level.. Brake line expansion can be yet another. Moisture in the brake fluid can be yet another. You can have some or all of these (unlikely) going on at once contributing to a lack of "lever". Since you are getting down and dirty with all this anyway, why don't you consider changing-out that old brake fluid with some brand new fluid. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, and as such will absorb and retain moisture over time. This can ultimately contribute to a spongy feel at the lever. It will also damage paint, so be careful and cover your painted surfaces when dealing with brake fluid. If you do this, consider some braided brake lines from Diamondback or Goodridge. They look super and resist expansion under pressure.

Good luck with your upgrade plans.


I started a thread on rebuilding my brakes and pistons. I also added pics of the progress.

Thanks for the information. I flushed a bunch of purple dot 5 through the system. I have a power bleeder for the front and a vacuum bleeder for the rear.

The power bleeder I use to flush brake fluid through my cars and truck for changing brake fluid out.


Straightleg
 

Last edited by straightleg; Feb 5, 2011 at 02:22 PM.
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Old Feb 5, 2011 | 01:37 PM
  #33  
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I believe the reason is so the fork tube doesnt turn when tightening. If you remember the book says to install the bushings with the seam to the sides of the legs, rather than front to back, . Thats how i interpreted it.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2011 | 01:45 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by bagman1
I believe the reason is so the fork tube doesnt turn when tightening. If you remember the book says to install the bushings with the seam to the sides of the legs, rather than front to back, . Thats how i interpreted it.
What your saying makes sense but thats not in my 2009 Touring Manual at all? I wonder if it's a miss print?
Thanks for the input though.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2011 | 02:40 PM
  #35  
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I remember that from my 07 book
 
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Old Feb 5, 2011 | 06:17 PM
  #36  
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OP.........

Why try to save the fork oil?
 
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Old Feb 24, 2012 | 01:45 PM
  #37  
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Ace Hardware has tons of chrome bolts; that's where I got my caliper bolts.
 
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