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easy jack up bike on motorcycle jack i have craftsman pull off hard bags remove exaust pipes pull retainining clip use 36 mm wrench or socket remove axle nut dissconnect lower schock bolts pull out axle now jack up bike a little at a time to clear rear fender remove belt and done
wireman That's it?[8D] what's? all this about using a hanger or welding rod for wheel alignment, drive belt tension? If what you discribe bypass all of that kool
Go down to the local Lowes or Home Depot or hardware store and get yourself a piece of 1/8" steel rod and an 1/8" grommet. Also pick yourself up a new cotter pin. Make up the alignment 'tool' per the specs in the FSM. Once you've got that done, and before you've loosened anything up: measure the amount of exposed thread you have on the axle adjusters-metal ruler is fine-I have an insider caliper that I use. Others simply count the number of turns on each side it takes to loosen the belt up enough to remove the wheel. Assuming your present belt tension is within specs, either way will give you a guideline for tightening them later. Now start taking it apart. I do find it easier to remove both the hardbags and both mufflers. Lay out the nuts, washers, spacers, in the order that you removed them. Clean the axle of old grease-your gonna put a new coat on it before install. Do whatever it was that you need to have done to the wheel/tire, (this is also a good time to really clean that wheel) then reverse the process. Use the axle adjusters-tighten to the previous point-to set the alignment using the tool you made. Snug up the axle nut, relax the jack so the weight of the bike is on the tires and check the belt tension per spec. If everything checks out...Tighten the axle nut to spec...You own a torque wrench...Right? Put the new cotter pin in and reassemble the bike.
Removing the rear wheel is not that bad. You need to look at it for what it is....a wheel. After you jack it up. Take off both mufflers and then remove the caliper from the mount. Then just take the clip off the axel and remove the nut and slide out the axel. Depending on how much anti-seize compound is on the axel, you might have to use a mallet (not a hammer) to move the axel. I use enough anti-seize so I don't have issues. The wheel comes right out. The cams built on the axel will prevent you from having to realign the wheel. When you put it back together, you will set the tension on the belt and since you moved nothing else, it should be fine. Good luck and enjoy.
The hanger thing is only to hold up the mufflers....I slip mine on and put the rear hanger bolts in and then torque the front clamps to 60 ft. lbs. and then tighten the back bolts. Don't forget the locktite on the hanger bolts.
wireman That's it?[8D] what's? all this about using a hanger or welding rod for wheel alignment, drive belt tension? If what you discribe bypass all of that kool
The welding rod wheel alignment tool is for older bikes than yours. On the late model dressers there is a cam system on the rear axle that automatically assures alignment.
In my opinion you do need a belt tension gauge to insure that you get the correct tension on the belt after you reinstall the tire.
billnourse is correct, no need to fabricate any type of alignment tool. Once you pull the wheel the first time you'll be a little surprised at how simple the whole process is.
Damn...You mean The MoCo actually 'simplified' something? No need to make/use the alignment tool on new models? What the.....
Must be time for me to get a newer model....Hell, I'm surprised they haven't added a 'special' forum for bikes that are older that a 2000 model....I guess it's only a matter of time before EVO get's added as a sub forum to the Classic forum....
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