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Starting problems - Bad Battery?

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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 10:49 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Theakerr
At 6 years old your battery is a a dead one waiting. It strikes me that you are actually lucky in that it is giving you some warning. It has been my experience that to-days batteries, whilst they last longer give ZERO warning when they are ready to go. You can start it in the morning to go to work and when you come out in the evening it is dead
+1 on above...Theakerr is right, I usually swap out batteries at the 4 year old point, whether I need it or not!

Its been my experience that motorcycle batteries last this long typically...and when they go with no warning, it will leave you stranded...I suspect you are living on borrowed time...
 
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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 12:31 PM
  #12  
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I overlooked the 6 year old battery. I would definitely replace it if it is that old.

Drew
 
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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 07:49 PM
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All right, I'm trying to solve this thing. When you turn the console power on, flip on the run switch, will the brake light and directionals illuminate? Or does it have to be running? Somebody check that for me. Like I said all the lights are on but it won't start and the lights don't go dim when I try to start it.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 08:14 PM
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Hitting the start button does nothing at all for a time, then cranks fast and starts?

Are you giving the start button a wiggle or two while praying it starts maybe?

I'm betting on the switch, then relay (but usually they work or they don't), then the battery. Don't really think battery, because I had three fail quick (not battery's fault) and each time the lights and grunting starter made it clear.
I think you have crap in the switch preventing contact, and holding it down is eventually getting some contact. A new switch is relatively inexpensive, I think.

Don't know what to say about the choice between a 51k tire and a 6 yo battery, LOL! I'd be afraid to ride with either!
 
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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 08:35 PM
  #15  
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Sounds more like a start switch issue. This past weekend had to get a friend come get me, take me home so I could get my truck and trailer to retrieve my Ultra due to a completely dead battery. You're on borrowed time with your battery, so I would definitely replace it now. Mine checked good under the load test, so that's not foolproof. Battery on my RKC lasted 7 years but once again was completely dead when I wanted to go riding.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 08:50 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by cromagnon
It's been real cold in Virginia. Never used a battery tender because I usually ride at least once a week. Anyway, what is happening is this:
I turn the console switch to on, click the run button on the handlebar switch. I can hear the EFI cycle and all the lights are on. I have all accessories unplugged and toggles off. When I depress the start button, nothing happens. If I keep trying, like just hold the switch down eventualy it will fire and start up. I thought I was toast a couple of times last night. This has been going on a couple of weeks. The first incident, the bike was covered in moisture out in the unheated garage.
The battery is over 6 years old .... no clicks or any strange noises when it does not start. Thinking that it may be too late to start using a tender, considering I put significant mileage on it on Saturday which should have charged it real good.
Anybody got any ideas or thoughts that it may be something else other than the battery?
I've never got 6 years on a motorcycle battery. I consider myself lucky to get 3-4 years. Might want to do a load test on the battery to eliminate it as a possibility. Check and clean the terminals and take a look at your electrolyte levels and re-charge with a smart charger. If that don't work, it's probably time for a new one.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 09:11 PM
  #17  
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Yeah probably will need a battery. Still puzzled since it won't start now, can't remember if the brake lights work with the bike not running cause mine ain't but all the lights are nice and bright and the EFI cycles. Just don't want to drop in a new battery to find that it's actually the switch. The switch is cheap, but you got to cut, splice, solder and shrink wrap the wires which look like a challenge out in the cold garage.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2011 | 08:25 AM
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bump ..... looking for answer to last question ....
 
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Old Jan 6, 2011 | 08:54 AM
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On a 2010 LTD, the brake lights are "on" with the ignition switch in the "on" position and kill switch in the "off" position (motor not running)...hope this helps...
 
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Old Jan 6, 2011 | 09:13 AM
  #20  
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Brad
What I meant to say is, when you step on the brake pedal or squeeze the front break lever does the light get brighter like it supposed to, even when the engine is not running? Or do the directional work?

I realize, I'm being a pain in the *** ... yeah I know I should replace this battery, but trying to see if I got a bad switch first ...
 

Last edited by cromagnon; Jan 6, 2011 at 09:18 AM.
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