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Everyone is harping on the battery simply because of the age, and while it's a valid issue, it doesn't seem to be causing his issue. He says that when he is finally able to turn over the motor, it starts "with vigor"... that does NOT sound to me like a dead battery, but rather, a connection issue.
I'll throw in another vote for :
1. Bad handlebar switch
2. Loose connection or ground.
Thanks for taking my side du,
I went out and picked up a new voltmeter. Disconnected everything and the battery metered out to a good 12 volts.
Reconnected just the positive and negative and left the options off. Determined that a click was coming from the relay. Reseated relays ... same thing.
When I was switching off console switch noticed that speedo backlight would come on for a bit and noticed that there was a lot of play in the switch. Got the switch so the backlight was on, now the directionals would work. Hit the start and run buttons and it cranked right up.
Damn if it ain't the console switch. It has a lot of play in it. I'm not sure if I can tighten it up, but at least I know what the problem is and it's fairly minor. All I got to do is juggle it a little until I see backlight and I know it will start. The actual age of the battery is 5 yrs. 8 months. Could it go any time? yeah. Could it last another year? maybe. Who knows.
Thanks again everybody. This forum is more than just comedy ...
good to know, but with that 12 dollar analog voltmeter I could see it was somewhere around 12 volts. Not sure what it really is. I'll try and check it a little closer tomorrow when I put everything back together. Thanks man.
after six years of use, your battery is very likely to the end of its life. if you want to be able to ride it dependably, it's time to bite the bullet and get a new battery along with a battery tender and plug it in through winter when you're not riding it often. i'm surprised your battery lasted as long as it has.
Mine did the same thing you describe in you first post here, and the same speedometer and tach lights symptom. My ignition switch was bad and replacing it cured the problem. Possibly your "console switch" is the culprit. I was able to wiggle and slightly move the switch **** to get it to start. After the new switch was installed, I realized how bad the old one was worn...
Mine did the same thing you describe in you first post here, and the same speedometer and tach lights symptom. My ignition switch was bad and replacing it cured the problem. Possibly your "console switch" is the culprit. I was able to wiggle and slightly move the switch **** to get it to start. After the new switch was installed, I realized how bad the old one was worn...
Thanks Olde Skool,
If you read back a couple of posts, that's exactly what I have found. Is there a process for getting the lock rekeyed at the dealer after you purchase the assembly? It looks easy as far as the replacement is concerned and I would rather do it myself. Oh yeah, how much did the thing cost?
Just another part of some detail to my previous post for a thought. When checking battery voltage for charge it needs to sit at least 24 hours from a good charge or drive to let it normalize since the alternator throws close to 15 volts at it and it will read this higher voltage for a while. Also keep in mind that the lower the voltage the higher the amperage draw of the switches, starter, alternator and regulator to do the same work which put more load on them. A bad battery can fry an alternator stator. The below chart is Harleys. Since the starter draw is about 160-200 amps, and these batteries have about 340 CCA you can put the volt meter on and watch it as you start after battery has set 24 hours. Voltage shoud not drop below 9.6 at 70 degrees
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